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Microsquirt Newb

So today I finished up mounting my fuse block and relays inside a waterproof box. Turned out better than expected. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get Google photos to show up here otherwise I would share.
 
I haven't run across any other sort of LS coil mounting solutions for this car. Could always look at mounting them on the apron or something. There are a few universal type mounts on Amazon and the like that stack them together fairly well.

Yoshifab sells one but I can't afford it ahah, so fab we go.

I can't post pics here either, not yet I think.

You can simply create a google photo album (public) and share it here, so we can all see how it's going. I do plan on video taping mine (My future MicroSquirt install if I have the time, not sure)
 
wow man, this is a clean install. I'll try to grab a fuse box like this one, nice car.

Thanks! Hoping to keep it that way once the real wiring chaos begins. Not too thrilled with how my in line resistors turned out but they will be under the plastic loom stuff. Functionally they should be just fine though in the long run.
 
Thanks! Hoping to keep it that way once the real wiring chaos begins. Not too thrilled with how my in line resistors turned out but they will be under the plastic loom stuff. Functionally they should be just fine though in the long run.

What are you using the resistors for in-line?
 
Thanks! Hoping to keep it that way once the real wiring chaos begins. Not too thrilled with how my in line resistors turned out but they will be under the plastic loom stuff. Functionally they should be just fine though in the long run.

Yeah just I don't understand the last pic where you tuc the wires back in a weird loop, like, why you doin' that ^^ for strenght or something ?

rb, the resistors are recommended for a MS install, I think its the coil ones. To clean the signal and other stuff I can't really explain right.
 
I know of a requirement for a 1k pull up resistor, but that is wired between the 12v power source and the signal wire for the crank/cam sensor.
 
Yeah just I don't understand the last pic where you tuc the wires back in a weird loop, like, why you doin' that ^^ for strenght or something ?

rb, the resistors are recommended for a MS install, I think its the coil ones. To clean the signal and other stuff I can't really explain right.

I assume it's so if there's any tug on the wire it won't disrupt the resistor.

Yeah basically strain relief in case something pulls on it. Figured worth doing with the resistors being relatively fragile.

I know of a requirement for a 1k pull up resistor, but that is wired between the 12v power source and the signal wire for the crank/cam sensor.

I'm running the CAS. It's my understanding i need to jump from the TPS VREF to the VR1- and VR2- leads with a 1k pull-up, no?
 
Yeah basically strain relief in case something pulls on it. Figured worth doing with the resistors being relatively fragile.

Well, kinda obvious I'd say ^^
I'll try to find a way to reinforce them if I were to opt for resistors in series in the wires like that, but I may build some custom PCB, to install them, to be able to check them and change them in case I need to.


I'm running the CAS. It's my understanding i need to jump from the TPS VREF to the VR1- and VR2- leads with a 1k pull-up, no?

http://yoshifab.com/store/docs/MicrosquirtVolvo4cyl240.pdf

Go on page 7, I think this is what you are refering too nah? You need to do it twice and looks like you did so yeah, you are correct sir !
 
From what I understand you can solder them on the board of the ecu. There is a local person here who housed his inside a gutted relay, which I might end up trying since I have a crap ton of resistors hanging around and some relays I swiped at the JY. It's just been a couple decades since I last soldered something.
 
From what I understand you can solder them on the board of the ecu. There is a local person here who housed his inside a gutted relay, which I might end up trying since I have a crap ton of resistors hanging around and some relays I swiped at the JY. It's just been a couple decades since I last soldered something.

Yeah, I know you can solder them on the back side of the board. But I'd rather build a separate board for the relays and the resistors. Housing them in a relay looks like a good idea, if you have the connector that goes for it. I'm not a huge fan of the big relay mess under the driver side kick panel, that's why I'm going with a board. I just need to find surface PCB mount relay connectors... This build is getting expensive !

I'm not really good at soldering so I'd prefer leaving the pricey board alone ahah ^^
I just need to figure out how to make them fit NICELY into the glovebox.

But hey, I have months to figure that out, this afternoon I'm going to visit a Turbo shop, I need them to tell me if I can reuse the shaft + I'll get the CHRA balanced later on.

I can't quite see on your pics, but you are running a remote oil filter and an oil cooler nah ? I see oil lines ! Are you using the stock exhaust manifold ?
 
Yes I'm running a remote filter on it. Decided to go that route when I was replacing the motor mounts. It still has the factory oil cooler that goes off to the other side of the car. At some point I'll figure something else out to reduce oil lines running around.

It has the factory manifold with a freshly rebuilt stock turbo from the prior owner.

So what's kind of throwing me off with the Yoshifab info are the bunch of capacitors in the coil pack harness and the mention of all sensor grounds needing to be separate. The MS guide has no indication of these capacitors. Little confused as to how to separate sensor grounds that end up at same sensor ground lead to the ECU. Is this referring to running a separate ground lead to something like a ground bus near the ECU as opposed to just jumping into the single sensor ground wire in the engine compartment?
 
Yes I'm running a remote filter on it. Decided to go that route when I was replacing the motor mounts. It still has the factory oil cooler that goes off to the other side of the car. At some point I'll figure something else out to reduce oil lines running around.

It has the factory manifold with a freshly rebuilt stock turbo from the prior owner.

So what's kind of throwing me off with the Yoshifab info are the bunch of capacitors in the coil pack harness and the mention of all sensor grounds needing to be separate. The MS guide has no indication of these capacitors. Little confused as to how to separate sensor grounds that end up at same sensor ground lead to the ECU. Is this referring to running a separate ground lead to something like a ground bus near the ECU as opposed to just jumping into the single sensor ground wire in the engine compartment?

Nice, I plan on running a stock turbo too, rebuilt ofc. Any advantages of running a remote filter..? I plan on running a sandwich plate with thermostat and a nice 16 row Mocal oil cooler (or the 13 row, im not sure, need to check the budget). Looks like a good oil line mess indeed.

For the coil pack harness... Yeah I do agree that Yoshifab's install guide isn't the most detailled. It's just that you need to include resistors in the harness. I don't know how it's made as I haven't ordered mine yet. BUT I think it's refering to the 1uF cap

"The two capacitors are optional but recommended. The 1.0 ?F capacitor on the +12V is helpful, it is similar to the one used on EDIS. What it does is provide brief energy storage for the discharge. The other capacitor will help eliminate back-fed noise to the MicroSquirt? controller. Use a 100 pF to 0.001 ?F cap on the TTL trigger input wire to ground. What this does is shunt extremely fast noise spikes to ground and not let them feed back to the MicroSquirt? processor. The added capacitance is minimal - with the series resistance of 1000 Ohms (in the controller) and a 100 pF capacitor the RC 3dB time constant is 2πR ? C = 0.6 microseconds."

from this link http://www.useasydocs.com/details/coils.htm (under "LS2 coils")

Edit : As for the ground... I have no idea but I think you are right, but it seems weird. I would run separate wires to a bus tho. More work but cleaner.
 
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Nice, I plan on running a stock turbo too, rebuilt ofc. Any advantages of running a remote filter..? I plan on running a sandwich plate with thermostat and a nice 16 row Mocal oil cooler (or the 13 row, im not sure, need to check the budget). Looks like a good oil line mess indeed.
.

I did it purely for ease of oil filter changes. Down the road I'll figure out what I need to run the remote oil filter and a replacement cooler off a single pair of hoses but for now this is functionally fine.
 
I did it purely for ease of oil filter changes. Down the road I'll figure out what I need to run the remote oil filter and a replacement cooler off a single pair of hoses but for now this is functionally fine.

I don't find the stock location to be annoying tbh, but I can see how much easier it would make the job. Im less sure cost wise tho...
 
It wasn't bad...got it on sale for under $40 from summit. Allows you to also run the bigger Ford oil filter too which, around here, is more prevalent at local stores than the Mann filters for the Volvo.
 
It wasn't bad...got it on sale for under $40 from summit. Allows you to also run the bigger Ford oil filter too which, around here, is more prevalent at local stores than the Mann filters for the Volvo.

The price of the thing itself isn't the issue, It's more an issue of "I wont be able to run the sandwich plate from KG", which comes in a kit and makes things a lot cheaper, like around 200 euros and it includes a thermostat, lines and a nice Mocal oil cooler.

Logic for you to do that tho. Here these Mann filters are quite common, again, Europe VS USA differences ^^

As for the capacitor, where do you plan on mounting them ?
 
Not sure about capacitors...need to look into it further. No reference to them optional or not in thr pdf mega manual so it wasn't something that was brought to my attention until now.
 
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