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Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

dem picz

fuel filter
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gaskets from tasca
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stuff installed (lines, breather, etc)
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radiator & intercooler installed (such that it is)
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tank back in, and running the return line; and getting inspected
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Where did you mount your FPR? I am needing to relocate mine because of the new NHRA rules at my local track and yours looks to be in a location that would work for me.
 
driver's strut tower. could've taken the opportunity to put it somewhere else, but decided not to for the moment
 
Do they also require some sort of fuel line routing to go along with that - i.e. on the other side of a frame rail from the trans?
 
No mounting them on the firewall anymore right?

On a RWD car 8+ inches away from firewall. If the fuel line passes over the line of the flexplate/flywheel (it always will on rwd) it has to be protected but some random thickness of metal. And no more than 12" of rubber hose in the entire tank to rail. So SS braided or sold lines everywhere.

I am needing to redo my filter to FPR line to steel and then mount the fpr in front of the strut tower bu of low near the frame rail.and then run a SS braided line to the front of the rail. Going to be a pain and then I need to somehow make the return line work with that setup also.
 
Alright. late night, and some level of shenanigans still afoot, but mostly things are getting there. it took a bit longer than I remembered to get the manifold and turbo all snugged up (that damn small housing and huge compressor cover makes for a snug fit), and there were some other smaller things that needed to take place as well, but explosions prevailed and the car runs.

I have misplaced my lower radiator hose (think it was just a shortened stock one), that's a large part of why I didn't have the radiator back in the car.. I took it and the intercooler out to swap the lower timing cover back on. I'm going to replace the tensioner with a new one, even though that one is probably fine, and I may flip the timing belt around to see if it'll start riding inboard instead of outboard. not sure what's up with that. it doesn't walk any further off the front, but I don't quite trust it, and it's simple enough to accomplish without all the stuff on the front of the engine yet.

In the video you see me try and crank it, and then go fiddle with things for a minute before it lights off.. I didn't verify that the relay for the fuel pump was being triggered by the ecu, turns out I had a jumper plugged in from back when I pumped the tank out in 2016. swapped that out, it came to life, and the results are obvious. No idea why it didn't want to idle, like I mentioned in the video I didn't log it, didn't look at anything, just wanted to hear it pop and fart. It's not far off though.

I did cheat a little bit, there was about 15 minutes of fiddling and cussing at the timing light involved in setting a ballpark tdc number, I had the plugs out and the turbo oil feed in a bucket, and got that close before trying to start it for real. the injectors weren't plugged in, in fact the only coil that was hooked up was #1. Gotta clean the terminals for the timing light I think, it kept flaking out and needing to be re-set.

still left on the to-do:
-radiator stuff (mostly just that lower hose), and intercooler stuff
-drain and fill the transmission, check into the drips.
-tars. Got to lookin' at the tires on the v8 car.. which are newer and simultaneously in worse shape than the ones previously on the gold car. may see what it's going to take to get some skinnies, but will also look into getting a set of general use tires mounted up on the black car's wheels (since those are the worst of the three sets), and just push off on the v8 wheels and tires for a while. Maybe do a monster burnout sometime with them, who knows.
-general tidying and tucking. it's funny, but I am looking forward to re-wiring the ecu in the wagon, the harness on the gold car isn't as bad as it looks (and it looks pretty bad), but there's a lot to be improved on and consolidated.

So far no obvious fuel leaks, one potential oil leak by the turbo (well, it's a leak, but it may be due to my not tightening the fitting all the way, we'll see), so all is looking good thus far.
 
May see what it's going to take to get some skinnies, but will also look into getting a set of general use tires mounted up on the black car's wheels.

I've read about people with skinny's getting into really sketchy situations because they had to panic brake and locked up the super skinny front tires and almost didn't come to a stop. I really wanted skinny's on the 240 but scompromised for the cheapest set of 185/70/14 I could get from Walmart. They have held up great so far and work well for short highspeed runs.
 
yeah, I can't really say I've had problems with normal tires on the front, just thinking forward a bit.
 
put the radiator/intercooler in last night, swapped the new tbelt tensioner on. Promptly jumped time on the aux shaft. spent way more time than I should have (my fault) getting the cams and crank lined back up. Aux shaft is still out of phase, idc, will just adjust the tdc angle.

starter button still does not work, will have to look at that (starter is fine,suspect bad contact or missing fuse for the button on the dash). my decade old wiring is fairly frustrating yet serviceable, I'll tolerate it I reckon til the chassis shuffle takes place later on. Ended up having to scavenge a lower radiator hose, mis-placed the one that was on the car, and wouldn't you know it, virtually no one in town has one in stock. "we can order it for you and you can come by tomorrow" yeah no thanks, if I've gotta order it, I'm not deviating from my normal route home.

did check the afrs at idle, she's piggy yet. 9.6:1 after ASE (I think at least) wore off. will be making adjustments to all of that before I try and run it again, no sense in fouling new plugs and thinning out the oil.
 
oh man yeah i onow it is a total pita if you need to align the auxshaft together with the campulleys to tdc.. i was 2 times at a point where i wanted to order an adj campulley for the auxshaft ;)
 
I don't worry about the aux shaft alignment, I just adjust the TDC/tooth #1 angle in the software, and move on. I do, however, need to verify cam timing (Although, it's looking ok based on idle vacuum at the moment.. 36 kpa).

I should also update the firmware before I jump too deep off in this thing. Going to shoot to have everything buttoned up and updated tonight, and maybe swapped onto the dyno ahead of weds and thurs shenanigans. If I can get free, there's Test & Tune on friday, I'd like to at least get one trip to the track in, assuming it behaves.
 
I adjust the tooth one or trigger offset angle AFTER I set the rotor phasing on the distributor.

If you get it too far off it will cause some interesting results. :omg:
 
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