• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

Slap a set of these on the front at the track, S60R spare tire. Aluminum rim, tire is about 3" wide. Offset is wrong but spacers on the front at the drag strip isn't scary. They generally cost $70 or so each

yocdptIl.jpg
 
now that the kids are in bed, I can break it down a little bit. first the bad news:
fuggin rear main seal appears to be leaking. dammit. that seems to be the worst thing though, and it'll give me a chance to try and seal up the transmission that perpetually drips from somewhere (pump seal, pump bolts, pan, all of the above..)

But, on the upside, cruise and gate tuning went well. I didn't touch acceleration enrichment yet and it shows (the brief stutter when I punched it). I was a bit surprised about the boost level (21 psi), Pretty sure I put 15psi springs in the gates, but at least it was consistent. I don't know that it's much laggier than the old setup was if at all, and I'm amazed it runs out to 8. it honestly looks like it could go further than that, but 8k is probably already pushing it. That's all hydraulic up top, btw. Josh's cams are working great.. it pulls good vacuum at idle and turns out the top as well. based on injector pw, the meat and taters of the powerband is roughly from 5400 to about 6900, the pw tapers off a bit after that (Even though the power isn't dropping).

If the numbers are right, I was probably leaving power on the table (a pretty decent amount) with the old setup. I'm going to try and get some more fuel tomorrow (didn't run out, but didn't know how much was in there, not interested in breaking it over something stupid this soon) and then perhaps play with the boost control and see what it does at 25 to 28, and make a plan to fix or at least hide the oil leak long enough to make a hit at the track.

To say I'm thrilled right now would be an understatement.
 
bumped the boost up today after filling the tank (took about 9.5 gallons, so I burned through a bit lol), at 27psi it made 515whp. Enough to go racin' I reckon. hm, now that I look at the log, I'm not sure everything is kosher... baro is off by 17kpa, it may have only actually been 24-25. hm. must've been pulling vacuum on a key cycle or something. the actual kpa value for the runs was 268-270 which comes out to just under 25psi. it's right on track.

gotta fix the rear main seal tho, it's.. making a yuuge mess now.
 
pic from today.
170121649.jpg


black line is just a verification run, same settings as yesterday (minus one degree because.. it made 6whp difference, won't miss that), green is a 2nd gear pull, blue is a 3rd gear pull.

there were some slight shenanigans on the last pull, afr didn't record correctly (or if it did, the car inexplicably got really rich with the same amount of boost and fuel by pw... and since it didn't drop any power I'm thinking the wideband just zonked out for a second), so I don't know exactly what that burble is there. I thought it was earlier in the powerband and just a granular view of the converter fully coupling, but at 6k, the converter is all in. probably gonna get a new sensor for the wideband.

looked into the boost discrepancy. turns out the ms had incorrect baro readings. probably my fault, I key'd it a couple times while it was running and pulling vacuum, and it maxed out the lower bound for barometric pressure. not really used for anything, the baro correction table is zero'd out (Well, 100'd out).

got a couple items to wire up if I have the inputs available.. fuel pressure (was previously wired up, but I think that was with the proefi and the old sensor flaked out) and oil pressure.

Fairly pleased so far, may see about getting some adjustable cam gears and advance the cams a little, see if I can move the powerband down a touch.

I am thrilled to death to have this thing back up and running.
 
oh and with street tires vs the radials (Which are a bit taller), top speed in 3rd is roughly 165mph. alternator is not really pulling it's weight as much as i'd like. may have to check the grounds, but I was considering upgrading to a 16v system next spring...
 
it's like turning up the boost for electronics. coils get hotter, fuel pumps get bigger, injectors fire faster (which I suppose makes them a little bit bigger too). I shouldn't be having amp issues with the current alternator, the only things on for the dyno session were the cooling fan and efi related things (coils, injectors, ecu, pump), which is why i'm going to check the ground situation first. I have a feeling some of the connections have gotten trash in them from sitting idle for a while.
 
I get that, I am going to run 1/0 gauge to the trunk for my fuel pumps and stereo, but none of that stuff wants more than 14.5V, it wants current.

I'm just curious (and learning here) because with the stuff that demands higher input in my (limited to car audio mostly) experience, a solid 14.5 V is best, but current draw is the limiting factor. When there are too many items demanding power, voltage drops because the alternator isn't big enough to supply the amps. You can watch the voltmeter drop when the bass hits, so higher capacity alternator and large capacitors is the usual answer.

But ya, if a ground problem is suspected, gotta start there, curious to see what fixes it.
 
Have you done any port work on the 16v head or just cams/springs/lifters and the manifolds?
~530whp is definitely nothing to sneeze at for some "baseline" tuning.
This thing'll be a ripper!
 
Have you done any port work on the 16v head or just cams/springs/lifters and the manifolds?
~530whp is definitely nothing to sneeze at for some "baseline" tuning.
This thing'll be a ripper!

street port. knocked down the divider, cleaned up the bowls, that sort of thing. I never actually checked it, I used measurements from other 16v heads that I flow checked when the bench was set up and operational, it's in the 260ish cfm range on my bench, a stocky stock head is roughly in the 200-205 range. for reference, the head that was on the stroker motor was right around 300cfm at roughly 11-12mm lift.
 
no good deeds go unpunished, and so it was with the rear main. Turns out the seal itself (Despite it being elring and not OE, not sure what the thought process was there, but I haven't been getting much sleep, so, ymmv. We gon' run n tell dat for the time being) was not leaking, however I did manage to not tighten all the bolts that hold the housing on. not sure what happened there, but it sure as hell made a mess.

the leaks on the transmission remain a bit more unclear, might do some shenanigans there to assist. off hand, I'm guessing the o-rings on the bolts didn't seal up, and for whatever reason, the gasket around the pump (paper, not rubber) didn't seal up. It's worth mentioning the leaks are gravity leaks, not pressure leaks... so the critical stuff the gasket is used for was all fine, it just.. oozed 24/7. figured I would take a swing at some of the ooze spots that are hard to reach with the trans installed. It was fairly straight forward getting the transmission out, esp since Sam stopped by and helped.

so, fun times and self-ownage.
 
Back
Top