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Old 01-02-2020, 11:20 PM   #1
90volvo
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Default J pipe for turbo

Having to replace my 90plus second time in 6 months. Iím wondering if anybody makes a J pipe so you can use the NA manifold? If not is anybody interested in making one? I did notice kLracing makes a turbo header. I know I can get manifold welded but so far locally nobody here will touch it. Thought about doing myself but I donít consider myself a welder but own an arc. Iíve searched old threads for resources but most links are 8-10 yrs old.
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Old 01-02-2020, 11:52 PM   #2
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J Pipe will not work off the N/A manifold with the turbo oil cooler so you will have to ditch that.

Why are you replacing the 90+? What is failing? I have never had one fail on me to the point I had to replace it. Sure they get cracks in the backside but a bit of drilling and welding and that is a easy one time fix.

yoshifab I think sells 90+ manifolds that have already been repaired.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
J Pipe will not work off the N/A manifold with the turbo oil cooler so you will have to ditch that.

Why are you replacing the 90+? What is failing? I have never had one fail on me to the point I had to replace it. Sure they get cracks in the backside but a bit of drilling and welding and that is a easy one time fix.

yoshifab I think sells 90+ manifolds that have already been repaired.
Hey thanks for the info. I will check yoshifab out. Mine manifolds crack so bad that becomes a bad ex. leak. Thanks
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Old 01-03-2020, 10:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
J Pipe will not work off the N/A manifold with the turbo oil cooler so you will have to ditch that.
Rotate 180 degrees, could possibly work.

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Old 01-03-2020, 02:41 PM   #5
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the outlet of the na manifold is right on top of the oil filter, it's not a matter of where you put the turbo
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Old 01-03-2020, 03:01 PM   #6
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I know, I had this measured up in the car.

To clarify what I meant: Rotate the whole cooler assembly 180 degrees (over its bolt axis) so the oil filter is facing the front of the car!
Use longer coolant lines.

If this does not work (I have seen no reason why it would not, other than having PS/alternator etc. in that location, which I don't :D), you could always go remote cooler/filter.

Last edited by Sjeng; 01-03-2020 at 03:18 PM..
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Old 01-03-2020, 03:08 PM   #7
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would require relocating alt/power steering depending on car, not as easy as it sounds. easier to put a remote filter on and ditch the standoff pipe and maybe even the oil cooler.
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Old 01-03-2020, 03:39 PM   #8
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the stock oil cooler setup isnt very handy anyways. But bringing j pipe to the front would be better than trying to cram it to the rear. I wlll probably just buy a Klracing header in the spring. I have my manifold on the bench and Im gonna give it a shot at welding it. Dont have anything to loose. If someone was to get a jpipe deal figured out, they sure could sell them quick.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:12 PM   #9
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What's causing you to crack 90+ manifolds to the point that they create a large exhaust leak? Small cracks are pretty common, but they're usually not audible.

Welding a 90+ is pretty straight forward:
Clean the area.
Grind out the crack and drill a ~1/8" hole at the ends.
Pre-heat it.I use a 40k BTU propane heater and let it sit for ~20-30min.
Weld it using some SS 308L (may be 309L...) filler.
Fully wrap it in a fiberglass welding blanket and let it cool on a rack for a few hours.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
would require relocating alt/power steering depending on car, not as easy as it sounds. easier to put a remote filter on and ditch the standoff pipe and maybe even the oil cooler.
I agree, dump that big filter extender.
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Old 01-03-2020, 05:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
What's causing you to crack 90+ manifolds to the point that they create a large exhaust leak? Small cracks are pretty common, but they're usually not audible.

Welding a 90+ is pretty straight forward:
Clean the area.
Grind out the crack and drill a ~1/8" hole at the ends.
Pre-heat it.I use a 40k BTU propane heater and let it sit for ~20-30min.
Weld it using some SS 308L (may be 309L...) filler.
Fully wrap it in a fiberglass welding blanket and let it cool on a rack for a few hours.
I heated mine with an acetelyne torch until it glowed cherry red then hit it with the mig welder. Drilled he holes in the end of the crack first. Air cooled, no problem.
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Old 01-03-2020, 05:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
I heated mine with an acetelyne torch until it glowed cherry red then hit it with the mig welder. Drilled he holes in the end of the crack first. Air cooled, no problem.
You are more brave than I!
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:36 PM   #13
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We have to weld on cast (not me, the shop owner) rear end housings often, heating with a MAP gas torch to 300+ degrees works fine. You are really supposed to heat it in a forge or something, then cool it in a forge but whatever.

The center section is cast, the ball joint housings are also cast.

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Old 01-03-2020, 10:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
What's causing you to crack 90+ manifolds to the point that they create a large exhaust leak? Small cracks are pretty common, but they're usually not audible.

Welding a 90+ is pretty straight forward:
Clean the area.
Grind out the crack and drill a ~1/8" hole at the ends.
Pre-heat it.I use a 40k BTU propane heater and let it sit for ~20-30min.
Weld it using some SS 308L (may be 309L...) filler.
Fully wrap it in a fiberglass welding blanket and let it cool on a rack for a few hours.
I have no idea. I believe its just a draw of a straw. Im running 18lbs boost. I went ahead and welded it, drilled holes as directed and heated it up and cooled it slow. I appreciate the help.
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Old 01-03-2020, 10:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarton View Post
I agree, dump that big filter extender.
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Hey, Dave I appreciate your info that you have on your website. Helped me out many times.
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:01 AM   #16
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Pics of the B204ft exhaust mani and turbo location, might be valuable in this thread. Factory Engineers normally get it right..... or deal with a warranty nightmare.
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:55 AM   #17
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Even though the manifold is crack very bad down the middle and other cracks spider webbing off of it. The main ex. leak I believe was from felpro ex. manifold gaskets. They look like they have came apart? So question is whats a good manifold gasket? The factory originals looks better than these that are only 6 months old.
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Old 01-05-2020, 01:27 AM   #18
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The way you stop cracking the 90+ turbo manifold is to port it so the flow is better than stock. Then the manifold heat won't build up as bad. Check out the photos on the stealthfti pbase gallery to see what it looks like. I had mine welded and ported over ten years ago. Still running well although I only run about 12lbs or so.

It did bake the $250 ceramic coating off in a couple of weeks. So definitely beware of using the wrong coating on it.
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Old 01-08-2020, 03:16 PM   #19
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porting does nothing if you're running a tiny little td04
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Old 01-08-2020, 11:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
The way you stop cracking the 90+ turbo manifold is to port it so the flow is better than stock. Then the manifold heat won't build up as bad. Check out the photos on the stealthfti pbase gallery to see what it looks like. I had mine welded and ported over ten years ago. Still running well although I only run about 12lbs or so.

It did bake the $250 ceramic coating off in a couple of weeks. So definitely beware of using the wrong coating on it.
Welp, I opened it up some more, drilled holes at end of ea. crack then welded. I just heated up with my torch then welded an inch at a time. I drove 3 hours and its holding at this time. I think Ill take my extra one and weld it and set it up for t3 turbo.
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