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Yoshifab 16v exh adapter / 240

oldschoolvolvo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2004
Location
Lancaster, PA
Anyone use the Yoshifab 90+ exhaust manifold adapter in a 240 and NOT have to massage the pass strut tower to clear the compressor housing?
https://yoshifab.com/store/16v-to-8v-exhust-manifold-adapter-kit.html

I mocked up a 16T with this adapter and have basically zero clearance between the compressor housing and the inner strut tower. I have a relatively new diesel pass engine mount that seems to still be in good shape (not collapsed).

I guess my options here are:
-massage the inner strut tower (very difficult with cyl head on engine)
-put a spacer under the pass side mount to rotate the engine clockwise to gain some clearance (and reduce the clearance between intake and master cyl :rofl:)

Has anyone else run into this problem?

picture.php

picture.php
 
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As you know this is probably due to the wider 16v head. Another option you can talk to Josh about is to use the adapter plate. He was selling an adapter plate that lets you put the 90+ turbo exhaust manifold on the 16v head. That may give you more clearance. Another thought is to modify the J pipe so it moves the turbo a bit further forward. Maybe Josh can do that for you as well?
 
I've never done that particular combination of parts, but I did tilt my engine over slightly to the left by using a thinner motor mount on the driver side.

An obvious alternative if that creates intake issues is to BFH it.
tenor.gif
 
Plan B = find a B204FT exhaust manifold and run the turbo in that down/aft location. Requires a Euro TB hookup......
 
It also puts the turbo right into the firewall. I made a 1/2 spacer plate under the motor mount to rock the engine over to the driverside.
 
204FT exhaust manifold

:nod: yup B204FT manifold would be the bees knees

i have one for my project. The oil return angle is tough. You also run into heater pipe clearance issues.

I have a new B204FT oil drain pipe I hope will work on the B234F block.
 
It also puts the turbo right into the firewall. I made a 1/2 spacer plate under the motor mount to rock the engine over to the driverside.

Thanks for the feedback.

i have one for my project. The oil return angle is tough. You also run into heater pipe clearance issues.

I have a new B204FT oil drain pipe I hope will work on the B234F block.

Do you have any pics of the manifold/turbo installed in your car? Downpipe / firewall clearance, etc?
 
@ZVOLV
Looks like you have been down this path before. I stumbled upon some pics from your 16v+T endeavors. Thanks for the photo documentation.

Linking some of your pics here for future reference/discussion.

Looks like you had the same tight clearance w/ the Yoshi adapter.

How much clearance between compressor housing and fender is recommended? 1/8" 1/2"?




B204FT exhaust manifold gives more clearance for compressor housing, but is tight at firewall.

 
The Volvo motor is a buzzy thing (modestly large displacement for an inline 4) so it's stuck in there with some squishy mounts. And the motor does move that way under torque. So it's up to how squishy your mounts are, how much power you're making, and if you have added some sort of mount to handle the torque (from fancy to as simple as a ratchet strap to the driver side strut tower).
 
If you have some sort of added-on torque mount on the engine - you could get by with very little. If it's wiggling around on stock mounts - maybe an inch.

I ran a ratchet strap for years with a manual trans and 300 - 350 whp. It works great. Practically no vibration, cheap, easy, and you can sort of get the strap snug and 'pretension' the drivetrain which makes it feel less sloppy under on/off throttle.
 
We ran that gold 240 16VT with the ex. manifold adapter, but I never ran the blue 240 with the B204FT manifold.

The 204FT manifolds crack. Mine's cracked.

The adapter....I'm not a fan.

Custom manifold....I would expect to deal with cracking welds.
 
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