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How much boost on flat top pistons?

Before this thread existed, I said to mikep in actual face-to-face conversation: 7 psi with a large compressor housing and really efficient intercooler (this was before I knew John was peeling apart the sandwich to see if there were pickles inside)

There is a fair amount of sludge in the oil pan, but no pickles yet.
 
https://www.oronite.com/about/news/low-speed-pre-ignition.aspx this covers it better than I can. it's been almost a year since I heard about it. there's an episode of realtuners where they go into great depth about the chemistry and testing and what not.

that should cover it, basically it boils down to calcium in the oil (among other chemicals) getting up into the ring land area, mixing with fuel and setting off knock. one of the interesting characteristics of it is that it is virtually timing independent, i.e. you have a really hard time stopping it by pulling timing, and almost doesn't matter what initial advance is when it comes to preventing it.
 
In the 14? years I have had it, it has been run probably 20-30 times. And I got the running car from a junkyard. The plates expired in 2000.
I changed the oil once.

Just s comment not a criticism. Getting i the pan hot tanked today, maybe have turbo drain welded on tonight.
 
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https://www.oronite.com/about/news/low-speed-pre-ignition.aspx this covers it better than I can. it's been almost a year since I heard about it. there's an episode of realtuners where they go into great depth about the chemistry and testing and what not.

that should cover it, basically it boils down to calcium in the oil (among other chemicals) getting up into the ring land area, mixing with fuel and setting off knock. one of the interesting characteristics of it is that it is virtually timing independent, i.e. you have a really hard time stopping it by pulling timing, and almost doesn't matter what initial advance is when it comes to preventing it.

yep, BMWs and Minis will throw 'super knocking' codes for when this starts to happen and will eventually shut down individual cylinders.
 
https://www.oronite.com/about/news/low-speed-pre-ignition.aspx this covers it better than I can. it's been almost a year since I heard about it. there's an episode of realtuners where they go into great depth about the chemistry and testing and what not.

that should cover it, basically it boils down to calcium in the oil (among other chemicals) getting up into the ring land area, mixing with fuel and setting off knock. one of the interesting characteristics of it is that it is virtually timing independent, i.e. you have a really hard time stopping it by pulling timing, and almost doesn't matter what initial advance is when it comes to preventing it.

Good read, thanks kenny!
 
So it's finally all back together, except the shift knob, vacuum connection to the climate control and the hood. This was after the 3rd attempt for South Bend to get me the right clutch disk, a weekend spent gambling with 240240 in A/C, waiting for a second set of rings after I broke one from the first set swapping pistons back in the correct order in the block, et cetera, et cetera as the King of Siam said.

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Adjusted Tuner Studio for the larger displacement and doggone it it won't start. Start troubleshooting and turn on the fuel pumps... Erratic pressure and cavitation noise from the underbody 044. Pull the DW300 from the tank and whaddya know, there's my problem. Stupid thing most likely blew up the motor, pretty bummed, I hope they at least warranty the pump, not sure how long ago I bought it but I only installed it last year.
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And yes I bought it directly from Deatschwerks, I'll see what they say tomorrow.
 
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I don’t see the visual problem with the pump? That sucks that it failed and caused all your issues though. Wonder how long it’s been lazy, did the wideband read lean a while before it grenaded?
 
I don’t see the visual problem with the pump? That sucks that it failed and caused all your issues though. Wonder how long it’s been lazy, did the wideband read lean a while before it grenaded?

I put the leads directly to the battery, does not run. I didn't notice the wide band reading when the motor blew, I was merging onto the highway. I think the pump failure and motor destruction all happened very quickly. The tank is surprisingly rust free for being a 1980, still shiny on when I peep through the pump hole.
 
I put the leads directly to the battery, does not run. I didn't notice the wide band reading when the motor blew, I was merging onto the highway. I think the pump failure and motor destruction all happened very quickly. The tank is surprisingly rust free for being a 1980, still shiny on when I peep through the pump hole.

Dang it?s like when you buy a waterproof phone case and then submerge your phone for whatever reason and it completely gets destroyed, the company is like ".....well we can send you a new case to replace the faulty one..".
 
that's a bitch. since you've got an 044 as a main pump, I'd say just drop in a regular 255 or something like that in-tank for the lift pump part.
 
that's a bitch. since you've got an 044 as a main pump, I'd say just drop in a regular 255 or something like that in-tank for the lift pump part.

They're going to replace the 300 under warranty, after they get a look at it if course. The tech guy said I could wire in a fuel pressure sensor to MS, and have it cut power if the pressure drops below a threshold. Do you know anything about this? He also said he blew a motor himself 2 months ago and was going to incorporate a sensor with his megasquirt. I'm on micro.
 
They're going to replace the 300 under warranty, after they get a look at it if course. The tech guy said I could wire in a fuel pressure sensor to MS, and have it cut power if the pressure drops below a threshold. Do you know anything about this? He also said he blew a motor himself 2 months ago and was going to incorporate a sensor with his megasquirt. I'm on micro.

It's easy. Get a cheap transducer off ebay and put it on the 1/8"-27 port on any aftermarket FPR. The failsafe is only available for MS3 firmware as far as I'm aware.
 
They're going to replace the 300 under warranty, after they get a look at it if course. The tech guy said I could wire in a fuel pressure sensor to MS, and have it cut power if the pressure drops below a threshold. Do you know anything about this? He also said he blew a motor himself 2 months ago and was going to incorporate a sensor with his megasquirt. I'm on micro.

If you still have the stock fuel filter, and if it is the same thread as a 740 (M12 x 1.5), you can use this to add a 1/8 NPT pressure sensor:

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/fuel-pressure-banjo-bolt-thread-adapter-for-24-valve-cummins/

I think Microsquirt is logging only.
 
depends on what kind of safety settings exist in micro. I haven't really looked at that in a while. with ms3 systems you can set a number of things to trigger actions... afr deltas, fuel pressure, oil pressure, etc.
 
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