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Old 11-30-2016, 06:44 PM   #1
FezMonki
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Default B230FT Dies randomly.

Hey, so my B230FT swapped into my 93' 240 likes to just die randomly when I throw the clutch down, and light the cluster like a Christmas tree. It will resume as soon as I engage a gear again. If I come to a stop after it dies, it will start up again just fine.

This happens even more when running on liquid propane, but one is not the cause of the other because it will do it even if I avoid propane for a week. Someone once told me propane systems will show every defect of an engine that wasn't quite as noticeable on petrol alone.

- I think it got worse with cold weather, but I didn't use it much this summer. It also seems to happen more often when the engine is warm.
- Car has a B200FT EZK and 850 orange top injectors, if these can influence anything.
- Crankshaft sensor and alternator contacts have less than 1000km on them (although the alternator shaft had quite a dent). Voltometer shows full voltage anyway (running the b230ft alternator, not the 240 one).

Anyone have a suggestion on what might be going on? It never did it while waiting at a red light and isn't disturbing me EXCESSIVELY, but I fear it might be a sign of whats to come.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:49 PM   #2
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Do you have a BOV, and if so is it venting to atmosphere? Venting to atmosphere can cause a VERY rich spike and cause the car to stall.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:18 PM   #3
FezMonki
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Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Do you have a BOV, and if so is it venting to atmosphere? Venting to atmosphere can cause a VERY rich spike and cause the car to stall.
I do not, everything is exactly as it would be stock on a 940 minus the 740 tubing/radiators for a painless install on a 240. The only exceptions are the orange tops and B200FT ezk (but B230FT ecu).

I do however still have the B200F 2.0 N/A exhaust on it that is choking the whole thing compared to when I ran with basically no exhaust for a couple days, might that cause an issue like this?
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:27 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by FezMonki View Post
I do not, everything is exactly as it would be stock on a 940 minus the 740 tubing/radiators for a painless install on a 240. The only exceptions are the orange tops and B200FT ezk (but B230FT ecu).

I do however still have the B200F 2.0 N/A exhaust on it that is choking the whole thing compared to when I ran with basically no exhaust for a couple days, might that cause an issue like this?
Hm I don't think a restrictive exhaust would cause it to stall (depending on how restrictive of course) but that can cause detonation and a lack of power. How did it act with no exhaust? I'd go 60mm minimum like all the factory turbo cars use.

Also an important question, do you have a CEL? Even if you don't, you should check for stored codes.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:34 PM   #5
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Hm I don't think a restrictive exhaust would cause it to stall (depending on how restrictive of course) but that can cause detonation and a lack of power. How did it act with no exhaust? I'd go 60mm minimum like all the factory turbo cars use.

Also an important question, do you have a CEL? Even if you don't, you should check for stored codes.
It spinned rear wheels a lot easier without the exhaust haha. It has a 60mm downpipe but the rest is 50mm with a poked out catalytic converter. I do plan on rectifying it, but if all its doing is loss of power at the moment, front suspension doesn't even have oil to leak anymore and requires more immediate attention.

I do have CEL and forgot about it, will check right away.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:39 PM   #6
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Base idle still needs to be checked/set. With the car fully warmed up close off, pinch or bypass the idle valve. Idie should be around 600 rpm. Adjust throttle plate until you get it there.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:25 PM   #7
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Smoketest or air pressure and soapy water test to find airleaks.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:12 PM   #8
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Thanks guys will test both asap. The car also hates being in gear at minimum rpm without my foot on the pedal if thats an indication either way, it grumbles and sounds like it doesn't want to run. This doesn't happen in neutral.

Sorry for my noobness, but how do I adjust the plate on this engine? I think the stock 240 engine had a screw on top somewhere, but here all I can see adjustable are cable and the little rod.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
2. Adjusting the Idle Speed

On the side of your throttle body, there is an adjustment screw. Loosen the lock nut. Start the engine and turn the adjustment screw until idle is 480-520 rpm. Switch off the engine and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjustment screw so it doesn't turn.
I found this, but 480-520 seems way too low. It gives you an idea as to how to adjust it though.

Don't just tighten the cable!

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo...djustment.html

Here's another link that may help.

Last edited by iHateVolvoPeople; 12-01-2016 at 08:43 PM..
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:44 AM   #10
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Doesn't this sound like his clutch isn't fully disengaging chaps?

If the car is a manual, and this problem occurs in gear while stopped, I'd say it's clutch drag.

Clutch drag, combined perhaps with a restrictive exhaust and a turbocharger (which is in itself restrictive) might be putting too much stress on the motor.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:11 AM   #11
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Doesn't this sound like his clutch isn't fully disengaging chaps?

If the car is a manual, and this problem occurs in gear while stopped, I'd say it's clutch drag.

Clutch drag, combined perhaps with a restrictive exhaust and a turbocharger (which is in itself restrictive) might be putting too much stress on the motor.
He said it dies even while moving. I've never heard of a car stalling while moving at any reasonable speed (unless you're in 5th gear at 5mph).

OP, have you pulled codes yet?
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:24 AM   #12
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Is the IAC functioning and all the vacuum lines associated connected?
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
I found this, but 480-520 seems way too low. It gives you an idea as to how to adjust it though.

.

Don't be telling people 2.4 has adjustable idle!!!


Don't even tamper with your tbody settings.
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:11 PM   #14
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Don't be telling people 2.4 has adjustable idle!!!


Don't even tamper with your tbody settings.
I didn't, I was always under the impression that 2.4 is going to search for ~800rpm or whatever it is no matter what. But it can only compensate so much. If something is way out of spec, it will make a difference.
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:44 PM   #15
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+1 promisering

Ive read in the volvo green manual that lh 2.4 needs base idle of 500 rpm. Set as described. Helped my car to not stall after boost. Idle rpm unchanged.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:14 PM   #16
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+1 promisering

Ive read in the volvo green manual that lh 2.4 needs base idle of 500 rpm. Set as described. Helped my car to not stall after boost. Idle rpm unchanged.
Wait, what's the difference between base idle and idle rpm? I though LH2.4 took care of the idle, even if you adjust the throttle plate (to an extent obviously). The plate needs to be in the correct position regardless of idle rpm though.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:18 PM   #17
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Wait, what's the difference between base idle and idle rpm? I though LH2.4 took care of the idle, even if you adjust the throttle plate (to an extent obviously). The plate needs to be in the correct position regardless of idle rpm though.
yes, that.

My definitions:

Base idle: only throttle plate. I set it to 500 rpm on a cold-ish engine.
Idle: what LH makes of it with IAC and TPS indicating throttle closed. Can be changed in the LH 2.4 software if you want, depending on temp and some other things.

LH will successfully make an engine idle at 800+ rpm with the throttle plate closed/badly adjusted. Can give problems, like on my car, in the quick transition from boost to idle.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:22 PM   #18
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yes, that.

My definitions:

Base idle: only throttle plate. I set it to 500 rpm on a cold-ish engine.
Idle: what LH makes of it with IAC and TPS indicating throttle closed. Can be changed in the LH 2.4 software if you want, depending on temp and some other things.

LH will successfully make an engine idle at 800+ rpm with the throttle plate closed/badly adjusted. Can give problems, like on my car, in the quick transition from boost to idle.
Oh man, I think I have some diagnosing to do on my wagon then. Runs like a top, but on a warm start it'll do this "idle up to 1500, down to 1000, up to 1250, then settle at normal idle" thing. Also if I'm decelerating in say second gear, and go to resume throttle, it'll fall on its face for a split second and then carry on normally. I've been too lazy to mess with it since aside from that it physically runs very well.
Oh well.

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Old 12-02-2016, 08:02 PM   #19
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check the TPS switch... my NA 740 wasn't closing the idle switch in the TPS and ran like ****... idle would drop super low and try to stall, then jump occasionally to about 1200 RPM... replaced and adjusted it, never had another issue
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