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Old 05-24-2011, 10:54 AM   #251
Janspeed
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The BMW M106 engine (e23 745i) has 2 of them as well. No valve hushers on that engine.
doing valve lash is a no brainer, we need to do that anyway.
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:09 AM   #252
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Got the switch installed:


Timing setting for Premium gas is +3 degrees (advanced), upper position, Regular gas, -3 degress (retarded) at the lower postion. The center position is unchanged stock ignition setting.

............. I'll try and get some more information and post back later.
OK need to post new results with the EZK mod.

I took a long trip to CT to haul a 2500 lb load of things from my family's home back to TX and during my first hour out of TX with the trailer nearly empty, ~1000 lbs total, I got really poor mileage 18 mpg, and low power with A/C on at 60-70 mph.

I had regular gas in the 245 when I left, so on my first fill-up I put in premimum gas and flipped the switch. Great! Fantastic! The car pulled wonderfully, even up hills at 75 in 5th. The advance plus premimum really performed well once the ICU/ECU 'learned' the settings. This made the 245 drive great, not since I've been using regular gas mostly since I did the mod. When I filled up the trailer with the load, the car hauled ass, even stronger once the ECU adjusted fuel to the bigger load, 21-22 mpg on premimum. I also added Lucas fuel conditioner and octane boost with Sunoco 94. Zoom, even those big hills on I 70 in Western PA and Wheeling WVA were no challenge to the brick, the car drove flawlessly.

Well that was great. Until I stopped at a gas station in Illinois that only had regular gas (Marathon, yeech!). I quickly flipped the switch back to 'Regular' for less advance. Car ran like crap, started running hot a few hundred miles later. Then the ignition started to stutter, and then the engine stopped running. I pulled over and checked the on-board diagnostics and found the crank sensor was faulty, and 2-3-1 code also. It did feel like the crank sensor was bad, but had recently replaced it, didn't make sense, bad aftermarket part?
Anyway, when I tried to start the car again, maybe an hour later, it started right up and ran OK for about 40-50 miles, but started all kinds of wierd ignition related problems, A/C high idle was going up and down every 3-4 sec, the throttle position sensor was making the engine jump then surge, as well as the engine cutting out like the crank sensor had an intemittent prob. I got the car to an exit and sat in a Denny's figuring what to do over a Moon Over My Hammy and a Coke, then started out until it acted up again.

So somewhere in southern MO I pulled over and let the engine cool down for couple hours. It was 99 deg and 85 % humidity and I was sitting on the side of the Interstate about 120 miles north of Memphis in Bum-F**K Egypt. )It really was just south of Cairo!)

I though, what about my ignition mod?

I looked at the ICU connector and though it may be out of the socket, so I re-seated it as well as removed the ign mod wires I added to the harness. I continued toward Memphis and all was well for about 50 miles, then the erratic behavior started again. I reached over and pulled the panel down that is under the glovebox where the ICU was, and then grabbed the ICU to feel if it was hot, and it was. A soon as I dangled the ICU into the passenger compartment and had removed the panel so it could get a cool air flow, the car began to run much better, and in about 5 min was fine. I happend to have a small cooler filled with ice, cokes & bud's on the floor so I put the ICU in the cooler where it stayed the rest of the way to TX. I filled the car with premimum gas, left the ICU in stock un-modified condition for the next 17 hrs until I arrived home at 5 am the next day.

The car has run great since, even with the ICU not on ice, have done nothing except let it hang, have driven it every day here commuting to work, 105 deg and a/c cranked. The mod is still disabled.

So the story here says that at some point I cooked the ICU. Was it because I flipped the switch after running regular? Did the ICU get over-worked by re-learning everything? It was running so good when I had the advance set for premimum.

I know this question has been raised before whether or not something like this could happen. Well it can. Still not sure if I need a new ICU or just don't mess with it. My nature says 'don't mess with it' and surely I angered the brickster gods by messing with my beloved VERY reliable 245. I have NEVER, that's NEVER had an ICU go bad, and that's maybe 25-30 200/700/900 I've had with an EZK.
I have NEVER had a serious road trip breakdown before, this was a first in probably 60 cross-USA trips and millions of miles. I'm going to leave it alone.
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:09 AM   #253
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bump..
on EZ-115K pins 18 & 19 connects to the #1 cyl sensor (B280).. anyone knows what pins are the "selector" ones, or do they simply not exist?
Is there anyone who can reply this question? Pins 18 & 19 are already connected, 18 and 19 are already connected. The only blank pins are 1, 9, 14, 15 & 22.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:52 PM   #254
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do pins 18 and 19 have to be connected to pin 20 or can they be grounded anywhere?
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:09 PM   #255
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Grounded anywhere
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:26 PM   #256
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Grounded anywhere
thanks
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:56 PM   #257
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Get in on the ostrich GB bro, you'll want to take full control over your spark and fuel curve.
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:13 PM   #258
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OK need to post new results with the EZK mod.

So the story here says that at some point I cooked the ICU. I'm going to leave it alone.
Update on my ign mods. Since the road trip in July I put the switch back in with pin's 18 & 19 connected and the orig 20 yr old ICU is doing fine, not fried.

What I would reccomend is that if you decide to change from one setting to another that you do it when the battery is disconnected, then power up and let the ECU/ICU slowly adjust and 'learn' the setting, don't just flip the switch.
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Old 09-28-2011, 03:53 PM   #259
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Interesting reading about the ICU mod to a LH3.1.

Question: Will it work with ECU # 0 280 000 572?
That's the ECU in my 91 245 M47 LH 3.1.
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:00 PM   #260
ipdown
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Originally Posted by mrnabisco View Post
Interesting reading about the ICU mod to a LH3.1.

Question: Will it work with ECU # 0 280 000 572?
That's the ECU in my 91 245 M47 LH 3.1.
It have nothing to do with the fuel ECU. So, it should work
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:01 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrnabisco View Post
Interesting reading about the ICU mod to a LH3.1.

Question: Will it work with ECU # 0 280 000 572?
That's the ECU in my 91 245 M47 LH 3.1.
as mentioned above the mod is to the EZK box

the mod works fine on my LH3.1 car, but no were near as well as a good ignition chip .
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Old 10-02-2011, 03:23 PM   #262
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:42 PM   #263
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Did this mod yesterday in a 1993 244 with an automatic, ipd VX cam and ipd exhaust. Did four 0-60 runs (two standard timing, two advanced) with 3 guys in the car (about 3550 lbs total) with a GTech Pro and got 11.45 and 11.27 for standard timing and 11.07 and 10.91 for the +3. The math says that's a 3-5 hp pickup. Not bad for almost free.
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:36 PM   #264
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So what about using an old dizzy like i have installed now, the one with mechanical and vacuum adv. i have it set right in the middle on the adjustment area. Is it neccasary to do thid mid with that particular dizzy since its always adjusting via eng rpm and vacuum. or should i get one thats non-adjustable and perform mod??
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:59 AM   #265
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if using lh 2.4, the timing is computer controlled. just set the rotor @ tdc and leave it alone.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:03 AM   #266
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noob question: complete electricity noob; what is meant by "grounding"... take the desired pin out of the connector and ground it, or splice a wire from ground to desired wire/pin?

and where the heck is the ezk box in a ´93 940? EDIT; nevermind, finally found out about location of the ezk in the chipping faq
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:56 PM   #267
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if running high boost with the cam advance wouldnt you want to retard the timing to prevent detonation/preig?

which is better? leave cam straight up and advance timing or advance cam/ retard timing on boosted b230ft lh 2.2?
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:56 PM   #268
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if running high boost with the cam advance wouldnt you want to retard the timing to prevent detonation/preig?

which is better? leave cam straight up and advance timing or advance cam/ retard timing on boosted b230ft lh 2.2?
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:18 AM   #269
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We'll I ran high boost and used the timing advance grounding trick and also used E85.... So depends on your fuel also...

Also if your running lh2.2 you can adjust your timing by moving your distibutor, this is for lh2.4....

Like pete says above you switch it with the car off, don't do it on the fly...
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:11 AM   #270
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complete electricity noob question; what is meant by "grounding"?... take the desired pin out of the connector and ground it, or splice a wire from desired wire/pin to ground?
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:20 AM   #271
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those pins are not used so you just install pins in the ones you need to and run the wire to a chassis ground
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:06 AM   #272
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okay, so the ones i want to ground, 18+19 for instance, I wire from connector to ground? thet rest of the wire is just not for use?

So pin 18 + 19 straigth from connector to ground?

(Sorry, noob :-/ )
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:32 AM   #273
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Yessir.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:42 PM   #274
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Yes and the other trick is there usually isn't any of those pins and wires in the 18 or 19 but you can get those pins and wires from say the radio plug or other plugs in any old volvo harness you have laying around.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:59 PM   #275
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Great!!! Thanks a lot!!!
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