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Sleeving a B230

poulrais

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Location
Quebec, CAN
Do anyone know a company making a sleeve for an oversize bore of 96.5mm? Melling has a 3/32 sleeve for the B230 but I think it'll be too thin once bored to the size I need.

I checked their universal fitting sleeves but couldn't figure out a combination of diameter/thickness/length that will do the job.
 
Interesting, I've been entertaining the concept of sleeving the B20, similar concepts apply.

Curious on the B230's, they list the bore at 95.25, so no chance of getting a factory piston back in there. Or is that so you can bore/hone it out to the preferred bore?
 
Curious on the B230's, they list the bore at 95.25, so no chance of getting a factory piston back in there. Or is that so you can bore/hone it out to the preferred bore?

It gives you an undersized bore, that then needs to be bored/honed to fit a standard sized piston.
On industrial diesel engines, the sleeves are designed such that you can drop them in and run them. No machine work needed, just a puller and hammer/drivers.
 
Interesting, I've been entertaining the concept of sleeving the B20, similar concepts apply.

Curious on the B230's, they list the bore at 95.25, so no chance of getting a factory piston back in there. Or is that so you can bore/hone it out to the preferred bore?

The sleeve from Melling is for use with a standard size piston...

Melling part # CL173

They are like $44 CAD each over here.
 
96.5mm seems to be basically the standard bore for built engines with forged pistons... anyone here blown out a cylinder? Just so rarely see sleeves discussed for a cast iron red block.
 
:ahem:

mine split out with 96.5

it's not all that uncommon for higher output levels, hence why the swedes do things like epoxy and concrete fill blocks, etc.
 
96.5mm seems to be basically the standard bore for built engines with forged pistons... anyone here blown out a cylinder? Just so rarely see sleeves discussed for a cast iron red block.

Well the reason I need to sleeve is because the cylinder wall is damaged and I'm already bored to 96.5mm. I don't want to order a bigger set of pistons @ $800 USD when sleeving will cost much less than that.
 
Is it better to sleeve all four holes even though only one is damaged? Can the difference in material between the sleeved and non sleeved bores change the thermal characteristics of the block and make warp under heat/stress?
 
Well the reason I need to sleeve is because the cylinder wall is damaged and I'm already bored to 96.5mm. I don't want to order a bigger set of pistons @ $800 USD when sleeving will cost much less than that.

calise! go get a block for $50 and start over..Is something special?

A fragment of the true fawkin' cross?? merde!

Its a block..There are many like it..
Hell Vince, remember him, that soon-to-be-full-time BC hippie has piles of blocks abandoned out there and he's probably never coming back. Borrow one..

When he's gonna build another motor he can get yours if it cleans up at 1mm

Keep it simple, stupide!!!:-P
tou' jours simple!
 
calise! go get a block for $50 and start over..Is something special?

A fragment of the true fawkin' cross?? merde!

Its a block..There are many like it..
Hell Vince, remember him, that soon-to-be-full-time BC hippie has piles of blocks abandoned out there and he's probably never coming back. Borrow one..

When he's gonna build another motor he can get yours if it cleans up at 1mm

Keep it simple, stupide!!!:-P
tou' jours simple!

Well in my neck of the woods there ain't no tabarnak de blocs available and I'm not going to buy a freakin car to take the motor out and find out that the block is in bad shape. The block I have is already painted and the oil return hole has already been drilled and tapped, which is a pain in the arse of a job to do again.

Simple isn't always the best way to go, you should know that at your venerable age! ;-)
 
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