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Getting more performance from my B230F

_Kodiak_

New member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Location
Chico, CA
Hi, everyone, newbie here. I've got an '88 244 with a completely stock motor, only things done on it are regular maintenance. I'm getting into amateur racing, specifically autocross and would like to know what I can do on a pretty restrictive budget (figure $500 or less per month) to build my car into a reliable daily driver and weekend tracker. After my first time participating in an autocross event, I've already got a starting point of what to do and that's handling. This girl handles like a barge right now! I'll be putting an IPD lowering kit on it next month along with all new bushings front and rear, better sway bars and a front struts brace, so that should help clean it up more than a little.

The other first thing I realized is the lack of power. My car is not turbo, so I feel I should do something there with a stock FT setup from the local parts yard. They've got two 740's with factory turbos right now, so I'm thinking of snagging one with most of the parts except things that would need replaced like hoses. I've seen a lot of threads covering a 230F to FT swap, but not a lot about adding the turbo on to this motor. Is that doable or is there a lot involved that would make swapping the whole motor a better option? Keep in mind, I don't have a shop or even garage space to do a swap. My work area is nothing more than a section of driveway with a carport, so not ideal especially with winter coming.

Thanks for any and all input, I appreciate it!
 
at top of forum page is different stages you can do. Me I ran NA for a few years. I ran a V cam which worked great. I know a Turbo cam works great. Doing the basics like tune up and good flowing ex. makes a huge difference. Most time people just drive these cars w.o. thinking a maintance cause they are so realiable. I have one here that has 160000 that never had the plugs changed or belt etc. Run ok, but way down on power. Start with stage 0, and go from there. Maybe rear end gear change. Freshen tranny up. Work on free flowing intake. Every little bit helps.
 
Thank you, that's a lot of good info I just totally missed! One other thing I'm considering is swapping the AW71 for a manual, mostly personal preference and also I think it would be a better setup for the autocross and eventually amateur rally. I know there was the M46/47 transmissions that were available, but have read conflicting reports saying they weren't particularly reliable boxes. I've also seen some info on a Ford T5 that can be swapped in with relative ease, so what's the opinion on that?
 
Use google for searching, add "turbobricks" to whatever key words like "stock car springs".
In order, here is my opinion on a starter list.
Do NOT lower it. If you do it right, it will be a hoot to drive on and off road.
200# 13" rear springs, 300# 10" fronts, stock rear bar, find a used 23mm front. GOOD dampers. (with the motion ratio in rear, that's the same rear vert rate) Urethane in front if you get that far, rubber in rear. Lower front brace is important, upper is not. Get a limited slip.
Then add turbo and don't look back. automatic is fine at first, my 244 rallycross car was auto with no sways and 300# rear, 350# front. 240 pedal boxes are easy to find, as are m47s.
 
Thank you, Mike! I was reconsidering lowering it because I want to get into rally, so that's off the list now. For the springs, did you just get them from other vehicles and adapt them to fit properly?
 
Kodiak you asked, "I've also seen some info on a Ford T5 that can be swapped in with relative ease, so what's the opinion on that?"
If I was in your shoes, I would stay with the Auto. If you really want manual, start picking up pieces for the swap or find you a donor car. IF you are going to add a turbo, then I would say start buying T5 stuff for the swap. As far as the springs etc. there is a thread on here on, "how to make my car handle?" Learn to search on google as stated above. There is many thread and good info that still applies today. Hope this help you.
 
Thank you, Mike! I was reconsidering lowering it because I want to get into rally, so that's off the list now. ?

I think that's the mistake everyone makes... self included... lowering the car lowers the roll center which actually increases steering effort and more importantly increases the amount of roll (or at least that's my interpretation from BNE's site.
 
If you lower your car just enough to make the control arms level with the ground. You have set the car up so the roll center isn't destroyed and the car can handle very well with the spring changes mentioned above. When I mean level to the ground. I mean parallel to the ground.
 
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