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Super moded?!! Help

heythere5

heythere5

New member
Joined
May 28, 2016
Location
Texas
Hello all.

So after learning more about the car i've purchased less than a month ago, I've learned alot. However, still very much a newb. Anyhow, I've learned that the resistor packs has been removed (or bypassed) and the egr has also been bypassed (probably the reason for the egr code). Also, the MAF is 3 in from a newer volvo.

Here's my questions:

1. Should i remove the harness from the egr connection(940- located on drivers side under hood )? Will this eliminate the egr code?

2. How should the vaccum lines be properly routed( i doubt the previous owner had right) with the removal of the egr system? (I am definitely considering putting that back)

Issues:

Averaging around 10 miles per gallon(if not less)

Car runs and idles so so for the first 15miles or so. (Situation is worsening! At first week of ownership, i could drive 30 or 40 miles without problems)

Runs real lean/rich per codes and visuals. 1-1-3("short term fuel trim"), 2-3-2("adaptive fuel trim too lean or too rich at idling", and 4-3-1(terminal #6)
 
Background info on the car: I purchased vehicle from a guy in san antonio. I took a chance on the vehicle because i never heard of volvos being such great cars and easy to work on in comparison to japanese motors.

940t ebay 90+ manifold, t6 injectors (350cc)from c70, 3in maf from a newer model volvo(why he adapted this for this car is beyond me), deleted resistor pack(have yet to read up on it's functionality), and a turbo he says is from a skyline gtr twin setup (markings read "garret AR/60, M24, 1-1"

(when i got there, the car was boosting at about 15psi, drove great, sounded great. However, the guy propably never drove it around town for hours like i did driving it home 3 hours away. Long story short, The car was moded for racing, he told me that it would drive on hwy and street "just fine". (yeah) Anyhow, the car drove home backfired a bunch, wanted to die at lower rpms speeds. Coasting at 65 or so the car backfired and sputtered(missfiring) the whole way home. I had to keep foot on breaks and gas.(found a boost leak the next day, reapaired it)

Couple weeks later, here i am. Changed the spark plugs and wires(plugs were fouled bad), oil, flter, fuel filter; fpr; basic tune up stuff. The car had straight 3 inch downpipe, i recently had a muffler put on because no shop would touch my car until then.

O2 sensor plug is worn, currently taped together.
 
The original "green top" injectors that came in your car are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to work (or a more sophisticated circuit, but Volvo used resistors). The T6 injectors are more modern high impedance (hi-z) injectors that the ECU can drive directly. That is why the resistor pack is bypassed in your car.

What are your goals for the car? Would you be happy with stock 940 turbo performance, or are do you want more (power and headache)?
 
Fix the o2 sensor issues before you can diagnose idling/cruising issues.

Replace the 3" maf with a stock maf.

Put a wideband in it if you plan to keep it in its modded state.

The injectors in the car now are hi-z, and their use requires that the resistor pack be removed.

If you plan to keep the egr bypassed, you will need a chip for the EZK (ignition ecu) that is mapped for a non-egr car, and that will take care of the light. I know a guy that can hook you up with one for a small fee.
 
If you plan to keep the egr bypassed, you will need a chip for the EZK (ignition ecu) that is mapped for a non-egr car, and that will take care of the light. I know a guy that can hook you up with one for a small fee.[/QUOTE]

I'd love that plug-in, thanks! So is this why my engine is stalling out?? Because of the egr being bypassed. This was done to that car prior to me. Thanks again
 
turbotankshane said:
Fix the o2 sensor issues before you can diagnose idling/cruising issues.

Replace the 3" maf with a stock maf.

Put a wideband in it if you plan to keep it in its modded state.

The injectors in the car now are hi-z, and their use requires that the resistor pack be removed.

If you plan to keep the egr bypassed, you will need a chip for the EZK (ignition ecu) that is mapped for a non-egr car, and that will take care of the light. I know a guy that can hook you up with one for a small fee.
Click to expand...


And what light are you talking about? The CEL is not on.
 
sim said:
The original "green top" injectors that came in your car are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to work (or a more sophisticated circuit, but Volvo used resistors). The T6 injectors are more modern high impedance (hi-z) injectors that the ECU can drive directly. That is why the resistor pack is bypassed in your car.

What are your goals for the car? Would you be happy with stock 940 turbo performance, or are do you want more (power and headache)?
Click to expand...

My long term goals is a 13-12 second street car/daily driver. At full/unlmtd boost, the car supposedly has around 250 to the rear(according to po). But this guy did things to this car, like not take care of it. I have it set to its stock boost(5-7lbs).
 
Does the car have a turbo bypass/blow off valve that's venting to atmosphere?

Is the throttle position sensor set correctly? Should click as soon as the throttle opens and right before it closes.
 
nitroboie said:
Does the car have a turbo bypass/blow off valve that's venting to atmosphere?

Is the throttle position sensor set correctly? Should click as soon as the throttle opens and right before it closes.
Click to expand...

The tps should click while car is on or off? Yes, there is a bov.
 
heythere5 said:
The tps should click while car is on or off? Yes, there is a bov.
Click to expand...

Both, but you probably won't hear it while the engine is running.

The stock fuel injection doesn't like bovs that dump to the outside. However it can be done.

heythere5 said:
What/where could I find an ignition box? Make/model. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Search the classifieds for "chippable ezk" or create a thread on the wanted section.
 
Its been said but it need resaid with emphasis. REMOVE THE 3IN MAF. put in a stock one and you wont get such horrible gas mileage. Some (i once did) use those to make the computer okay with larger injectors but your 350cc injectors arent large enough to need it, which is why its dumping tons of fuel. You have to "match" injectors with the afm (volvo for maf)
 
Canadan said:
Its been said but it need resaid with emphasis. REMOVE THE 3IN MAF. put in a stock one and you wont get such horrible gas mileage. Some (i once did) use those to make the computer okay with larger injectors but your 350cc injectors arent large enough to need it, which is why its dumping tons of fuel. You have to "match" injectors with the afm (volvo for maf)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the "ummph"! haha! Will try to use one of the other stock ones he gave me with the car, but like i said before they don't work. I will give a good clean and check to make sure continuity is ok. But as I've read, diagnostically speaking, the amm is dang near impossible to diagnose on the car because of humidity, barometric pressure, etc. A good MAF cleaner may work. I'll let you know what happens. But gas use is the least of my worries. I can't figure out why my car is dying. I reset ecu after cleaning iac, checking tps, vac leaks, boost leaks, re-fitted some wire harnesses that were dried up(elec cleaner/grease). The car ran and idled brilliantly for about 10 minutes...Then...Falls right back on it's a$$ again.
 
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