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240 Copper fuses

hessam69

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Location
Sydney, Australia
Hi,

Is it true we can no longer get copper ceramic fuses?

I purchased what seems like 100 new fuses from IPD. Upon opening up the parcel, I was disappointed to find only the 25A fuses are copper, the 16A and 8A are aluminium. Yet the IPD item picture shows them all as copper. This angered me, so I emailed IPD:

Hello,
Thank you for your email. I am sorry for the confusion but the problem is that the copper/ceramic fuses are no longer being made by any manufacture. They have been replaced by thermoplastic/aluminum and there is no other choice or source at this time. it is what it is unfortunately. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Kindest regards.

What do you think about this? I'm not giving up, I want copper fuses. I was able to purchase them about 2 years ago via Ebay. Cannot find that seller anymore.
 
I hate those fuses. Copper or not. If something doesn't work, spin the fuse...wtf..I bought blade style fuse holders but haven't attempted to squeeze them in yet. You can still get copper ones but be prepared to pay more than fuses are worth. Aluminum is ok, it just has to be a bit thicker, the real problem is the fuse style sucks. A tiny contact point. polish up the fuse contacts, maybe that will minimize the problems.
 
Pull negative battery cable, wire brush fuse holders, apply dielectric, replace with all new.
Stage Zero, best you can do short of replacing the fusebox.
 
Pull negative battery cable, wire brush fuse holders, apply dielectric, replace with all new.
Stage Zero, best you can do short of replacing the fusebox.

I recommend against applying dielectric grease to the fuse contacts because it is an electrical insulator. If you really really want to apply dielectric grease, clean the fuse holder, insert the fuse and then apply dielectric grease (or just about any grease including vaseline) to cover the contacts to block oxygen and oxidation of the electric contacts. Dielectric grease is the trick for the high voltage side of ignition systems when you want good electrical insulation not electrical conduction.

A better choice are the greases that are used for the assembly of heavy electrical connections. These greases have microscopic metal particles in them that can enhance electrical connections when trapped between two metal contacts. The grease body also serves to block oxidation of the contacts. There are various brands of the stuff (some of it only available in 1-5 gal pails); but, Home Depot and the like typically sell small tubes of Ox Guard for a couple of $ that should do the trick nicely.
 
I recommend against applying dielectric grease to the fuse contacts because it is an electrical insulator. If you really really want to apply dielectric grease, clean the fuse holder, insert the fuse and then apply dielectric grease (or just about any grease including vaseline) to cover the contacts to block oxygen and oxidation of the electric contacts. Dielectric grease is the trick for the high voltage side of ignition systems when you want good electrical insulation not electrical conduction.

A better choice are the greases that are used for the assembly of heavy electrical connections. These greases have microscopic metal particles in them that can enhance electrical connections when trapped between two metal contacts. The grease body also serves to block oxidation of the contacts. There are various brands of the stuff (some of it only available in 1-5 gal pails); but, Home Depot and the like typically sell small tubes of Ox Guard for a couple of $ that should do the trick nicely.

Noalox would be another fine product to use, yes.
 
Have you tried VW parts suppliers? They usually have the good versions of those fuses. Once you go over the fuse box like above. There aren't any problems for years.

The worst volvo fuse setup is my 93 with the extra fuse box on the battery post. I see my self eventually moving the wiring and fuse box to the inner fender instead of that corrosion prone location. Although it's done ok for awhile now since I did the corrosion block spray treatment to it.
 
Littlefuse continues to make the GBC style fuses in 5, 8, 15 and 25 amp sizes.

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-aftermarket-products/specialty-items/gbc.aspx

A mixed pack is available

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/littelfuse-european-fuse-assortment-5-pk-0201555p.html#srp

Bussman also lists GBC fuses in the 5, 8, 16 and 25 amp sizes. If you can't find them locally, Digikey sells them.

I would not get hung up about whether they look like copper or aluminum or whatever and whether they are porcelain or thermoplastic. Copper would actually be a poor fuse material since its melting point is relatively high. Most modern fuses are a mix of alloys with lowish melting temperatures. The GBC standard is a German automotive standard and as long as the fuses comply with the performance requirements of the standard, what they look like is not particularly relevant.

If you have a concours d'elegance candidate and everything has to be absolutely original, save your old porcelain cores and when a fuse blows, take the fusible element off of a new Littelfuse GBC fuse and wrap it around your old porcelain core.
 
Long ago IPD used to carry a gold plated version of the GBC fuses. That was the throne of fuse upgrades. I wonder if that is still a version that is available?
 
^I think you mean the stainless steel/glass Buss fuses. iPd sold those and the standard brass/ceramic fuses.
 
^I think you mean the stainless steel/glass Buss fuses. iPd sold those and the standard brass/ceramic fuses.

They were gold plated. I had a couple sets of them. Circa 1991?

Edit. They were made by gold guard systems, foster city CA. IPD Volvo replacement fuse set. I still have three of the 25 amp one. lol.
 
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