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Don't forget to steryli[s|z]e these tools/parts you're getting, Colgate 41, right now is a bad time in history to be receiving used goods from other, especially in NY, Spain, or Italy.
I'm glad mine's not rusty like yours, but instead, it's awfully dusty - the car must have been used on gravel/metal roads for half its life:
I assume that hose clamp around the nut is not factory and that someone chucked it on there because they broke the nut or felt it wasn't tight enough/sealing well enough/etc - so I probably have some fun times ahead, and i can't get at my spare tank/pump/parts right now due to being 1.5 weeks into a 4 week hard lock down - essential travel only.
Re psi, the regulator takes care of that, if it's not faulty, you'll get the correct pressure, and if the pump can't produce it you'll get no or insufficient flow, but all EFI pumps can produce enough to overwhelm a factory rail pressure regulator. Or did you mean the hoses? If so, 50psi minimum, usually they're rated much much higher than that. If it's before the main pump then low pressure hose will be fine. If it's after the main pump and before the regulator good high pressure hose is needed. Return line low pressure hose is fine, until the end in the tank blocks one day
I would probably drop the tank and do the work on the bench and be ready to source some parts.
I was thinking that, even with the correct tool on order. I have a feeling since the car sat for a bit and with all the rust I'm knocking loose that dropping the tank might be worth it. I have to take a better look at it today and see what's involved and how many rusty bolts I have to deal with and if It's even a battle worth fighting.
Also, once this is all done I might hit everything with a some sort of coating to protect from rust. Anyway have any suggestions?
Judging from your pictures, I would leave the tank in place. The straps attach to a bracket at the rear of the tank that has long threaded studs. There is also a steel bracket at the front of the tank that attaches with 8mm bolts. I would bet removing the tank will be like opening Pandora's box. Out here, I've done that more than once to work on an in tank pump/sending unit issue. I've done so many of these I just leave the tank in place now. It's much faster. You have to pull the sending unit out of the tank about 1-2 inches, then, rotate it 180 degrees counter clockwise in order to get it to come out through the hole in floor of the car. Get ready for a lot of cussin'. If the idiots at Volvo had made that access hole one inch bigger in each direction, the job would be a cake walk. It is barely possible even if you know what you are doing.
I was thinking that, even with the correct tool on order. I have a feeling since the car sat for a bit and with all the rust I'm knocking loose that dropping the tank might be worth it. I have to take a better look at it today and see what's involved and how many rusty bolts I have to deal with and if It's even a battle worth fighting.
Also, once this is all done I might hit everything with a some sort of coating to protect from rust. Anyway have any suggestions?
Yep, agreed, and hate to do this to you, but:I would take a mountain of dust any day over this north east rust!
Interesting! Could easily be right, you can see that dust had not been disturbed in quite a long time. I actually have full receipts for this car, unlike the others, so I could go through and check I guess, but not sure I can be bothered. A quick image search without bias showed most of them having it present and the ones that didn't likely older models. Cool Means the dead pump did ~300,000km either helping or in the way blocking the supply.In reading and researching about this part of the car and the sending unit, I actually believe that big hose clamp on your sending unit nut is factory believe it or not. I think this was added to the 940/60 cars as just a failsafe. I could be wrong but that's what I read.
I use a lift and a hydraulic jack to drop fuel tanks. Doing it at home won't be as easy. I honestly haven't dropped a 740 tank. Rusty mouting hardware could be a big hurdle, but I also don't like squeezing into trunks or cargo area.
A hammer and a flathead work well for knocking that big nut loose, usually.
ZVOLV is in California. He thinks rust is that orange color in the chips in his paint. He?s never seen real rust.