Wheel Alignment Tools

I have been driving around in my 1971 142 since completing a resto-mod in 2014 without a formal wheel alignment check. I merely replaced the same number/size of shims as I took out. And that is an approximate replacement because I measured the old rusty things and tried to get new replacements in approximately the correct sizes. Plus, who knows whether I interpreted my scribble notes that I took when I dis assembled stuff approximately 2 years before I reinserted the new shims. I also altered the ride height so that has messed with things relative to stock.

The car tracks straight on the highway and seems to steer just fine and does not wander; but, I thought I should probably check the alignment. Maybe my camber is excessive and I am going to be shredding my tires. Also, I installed EPS on the car which makes it sensitive to steering inputs on the highway and I thought that experimenting with a little more positive caster might increase the self aligning tendency and reduce sensitivity to steering inputs. With the Covid 19 shutdown looking like its going to last for a significant period of time, I thought why not experiment with the alignment myself. Its not like I am going to be going anywhere soon or have a lot of other things to do. To that end, has anybody tried any of the do it your self alignment tools and have any words of wisdom on what is good and what is crap?

I know that you can fabricate home alignment tools. Toe-in measurement is quite doable with some mild home fabrication. Camber and caster measurements are not so easy to do accurately - particularly since I am pretty sure that the 35 year old concrete pad in my detached garage is not so level. The claimed ability of some tools to correct for this is appealing. The levels with the magnetic adapter that fastens to the hub look slick except that it relies on a flat surface on the hub and even if the 140's hubs were at one time flat, the combination of nicks and corrosion probably means they are no longer flat. I am thinking that the type of tool that mounts to the wheel rim might be a better choice. My ATS alloy wheels do have beads on the rim lip so theoretically it should be easier to fit the rim mount style tools. However, I do wonder about how securely these things stay in place. I am going to be really PO if they keep falling off midway through the measurement. I am just wondering about any experience that others may have with different tools.

In order to do a caster measurement, you need to be able to measure rim inclination with the wheels steered 20 deg left and right. I am curious as to whether anybody has devised an ability to do a good steering angle measurement without the use of turn plates (which more than doubles the cost of dong it at home).

The original Volvo 140 alignment specs were:
0 to +1/2 deg camber,
0 to +1 deg caster,
0 to 4 mm toe-in

I am planning to start with -1/2 deg camber. I would like to get at minimum +1 deg caster an I am thinking that a little more would be desirable. I think the later bricks with Macpherson fronts run about + 4-5 deg caster (non adjustable on the Macpherson). Would trying for +2 or +3 deg caster on the 140 be feasible and within the range of possible adjustment?

Finally, the service manual specs 0 to 4mm toe-in. As far as I can tell from the service manual that is the difference between the mid tread point measured at the front and rear of the tires at mid hub height. Is that correct? Trying to determine the middle of the tread strikes me as difficult to do with any accuracy. I am thinking rim edge would be a better option? Has anybody devised an alternate toe-in measurement for the 140?

Sounds like an educational/entertainment opportunity. Once you get it aligned to the best of your ability and interest take it to an alignment shop and let us know how well you did.

When I did my first alignment some 60 years ago I used a tape measure and a piece of chalk brought home from school. Who knew what caster and camber was.

Can't comment on caster, as I've only 240's for experience, but your questions on toe-in are valid in my opinion. That opinion is tape measures and trammel gauges are wishful thinking in attaining the toe-in tolerance that results in both stable tracking and minimum tire scrubbing.

I started with a trammel gauge and immediately found it impractical on a 240, and years ago set my toe in using a long piece of EMT (1/2" conduit) held against the tire bulge and compared to the rocker trim. My dissatisfaction was based on both the tire and the rim lacking the accuracy needed to stay within the 0.27? range allowed. And the eye agility I needed to match the pipe's divergence to the rockers had been in decline for some time.

So about 10 years ago I marked the garage floor, measured for what was needed under the tires to level it, and cobbled up a pair of lasers to fix to the hub studs. For toe, I have scales on the back wall and the bay door to read the laser lines. For camber, I stand up a 4' carpenter's level at the wall.

Worries about tire wear are a thing of the past. Takes about an hour, and with the frequent replacements of tie rods, I've had plenty of practice, and confidence that I can check the quality of a tire shop alignment rather than the other way around.