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I understand removing and replacing the big bushing is a major PITA, so to avoid doing that how about sourcing a new, replacement trailing arm with all the bushings already installed?
A quick search showed the trailing arm without the big bushing is readily available and not expensive, but I...
If you're talking about where the metal oil return tube meets the block toward the bottom, it is a rubber O-ring and if it somehow fell into the oil pan it shouldn't be a problem.
Could be a prior owner didn't install one, and just gooped a bunch of RTV to seal it.
While you're replacing the WP it would be a good time to inspect the timing belt and tensioner and replace if needed; also consider changing the front crank seal, cam seal and balance shaft seal. Yeah, it's a bit of work but worth it if you plan on keeping the car for awhile.
I don't remove the hard pipe which attaches to the rear of the WP; I do put some silicone lube on both the pipe's O-ring and the place it bolts to on the WP.
Use a pry bar to press upward on the WP when compressing the upper round seal.
When the linkage in my '82 244 Turbo failed I removed the dash to allow easy access.
Removal was not easy, but not as bad as I'd expected: I found this helpful link...
http://cleanflametrap.com/dash.html
The "cam" that is attached to the cable came off; I used epoxy to reattach it, and have...
The connector doesn't connect to the solenoid, it connects to a different part, which tells the computer when the transmission is in fourth gear.
It can be a PITA to access and release, especially if like me you have big hands: I lower the transmission for easier access.
I
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