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240 '89 No start

mblue240

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2007
Location
Portland, Oregon
I parked the car and now a few days later it won't start. It cranks fine, but won't catch. Before I beat my head on a wall trying everything please help confirm my memory.

With LH2.4 I should hear a fuel pump run just before turning the key to crank?

I jumped fuse 4 and 6 (found fuse 4 blown, did not blow again after several crankings) and confirmed the main pump cycles.

If the main pump cycles, but the in-tank has gone out the car won't run?

Today was my first time trying to fix the issue, but it was pouring rain. Having other vehicles to commute in I decided to move onto other projects that wouldn't leave me miserably wet. I'll get out in the next couple days and confirm whether or not it's a fuel issue.
 
With LH2.4 I should hear a fuel pump run just before turning the key to crank?
Yes, for about a second.
I jumped fuse 4 and 6 (found fuse 4 blown, did not blow again after several crankings) and confirmed the main pump cycles.
Fuse 4 runs the tank pump and the oxygen sensor's heater. I've seen mangled wiring at the sensor under the car cause the fuse to blow.
If the main pump cycles, but the in-tank has gone out the car won't run?
Normally the car will run without the in-tank pump given enough cool fuel in the tank.

Check the timing belt is turning the cam. Try a squirt of carb cleaner or starting fluid to verify ignition. Check for key-on voltage at the orange wire on the AMM.
 
Since it is an 89, the first thing I would check is the 25A blade fuse above the battery. Even if the fuse is not blown, it can have a hard layer on the blades that does not conduct electricity.
 
Since it is an 89, the first thing I would check is the 25A blade fuse above the battery. Even if the fuse is not blown, it can have a hard layer on the blades that does not conduct electricity.

And one foolproof way to do that, not relying on visually inspecting the multiple connections made in that fuseholder and wiring, is to see battery voltage backprobing the orange wire on the AMM (red/black on a 92/93). Good voltage there with the key on ensures the 25A fuse wiring can pass a full load.

hattrick646.jpg


hattrick649.jpg


... Check for key-on voltage at the orange wire on the AMM.

It also checks the function of the system side of the fuel relay.
 
^YES.

That is about as simple as it can get. Build/buy/use incandescent test lamp and use as shown above.

Put the same lamp between the coil negative and a good ground. Key on LAMP ON? Cranking-lamp blink?
 
I checked the basics, even made a jump wire for the fuel pump relay like Dave Barton suggests. Turn the key and the car started right up....then I realized what I did. The car has a persistent water leak, comes in on the firewall and pools up in the floor. I do my best to dry things out, but the car is damp all winter. I ran a space heater in it last night and I think that dried out any moisture in the computers.

It did the same thing a few years ago and I just spaced it. I had enough though, I'm fixing the leak. I pulled the seats and flooring out today. The space heater has been running for 12 hours and I'll give it another 12 to really dry out.
 
Maybe we should add "check for water in the electronics" to the no-start routine. Common place for the water is in an FI relay which has been left dangling from its wiring, eliminating the drip loop it had when installed.

Common leak point is the grommet in the firewall where the wiper motor is sealed. Water entering the cowl vents forms a river dumping directly on this grommet.

wiper2604.jpg


wiper3029.jpg
 
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