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Old 05-11-2014, 11:37 PM   #1
zackhusek
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Default 850 turbo wagon performance loss. Help please

Okay, so about two weeks ago I comepleted my 5 speed swap. Came out of another 94' but it was a non turbo.
Prior to doing the swap i was running consistant 15.5's in the quarter and i had a bad torque converter. Now i have a perfect shifting 5 speed with r clutch and my best time so far was a 15.9 and im getting mostly 16.2s...am i mistaken or should i be in the mid to high 14's right now? I found some vacuum lines that i had forgotten off but i got those fixed now and still no performance increase. Only vacuum lines i cant place broke during the swap and one is the out on the purge valve and the other is the line off the charcoal canister (the one that doesn't go to the rear of the car). I also have an occasional cut where I lose power for half a second as well as backfiring often. Prior to the swap it ran perfectly. I also straight piped it during swap which may have reduced back pressure but I doubt that is the issue. Also I know it isn't my shifting or traction issues because I lost a roll race with my friends tc that I always smoked before the swap. Please, any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:01 AM   #2
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All I have to offer is take a close look at all of your wiring, hose connections, pipe clamps, etc. Look for any pinched or disconnected hoses, loose or pinched wires. It's entirely possible in the thrash in there that something got pulled lose or loosened enough to make a change.
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:33 AM   #3
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Okay thanks, any main things I could look for to narrow down the search area? Like, what would cause a backfire and power cut?
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:32 AM   #4
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During the swap I broke the firewall to engine ground and relocated it to a different engine bolt. Could it be getting a bad connection?
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:55 AM   #5
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During the swap I broke the firewall to engine ground and relocated it to a different engine bolt. Could it be getting a bad connection?
Yes. It's possible. You may have changed the flow of electrons as well. A few electrical eng's here have described to me the importance of where grounds are located as well, so could be a combo of bad ground and bad location (causing a loop vs flow of electrons, if that makes sense).

also, you mean head to firewall? Because shouldn't your block be ground right to battery?
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:40 PM   #6
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Yes. It's possible. You may have changed the flow of electrons as well. A few electrical eng's here haven't described to me the importance of where grounds are located as well, so could be a combo of bad ground and bad location (causing a loop vs flow of electrons, if that makes sense).

also, you mean head to firewall? Because shouldn't your block be ground right to battery?
yes, I mean head to firewall...I really just want it to run right and im so aggrivated with how it has been acting. Still havent found anything that could even nearly explain that.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:56 PM   #7
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So wait the head is grounded to the block now? Try grounding it close to the stock location
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:47 PM   #8
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Just put it back to its original location and no improvement. If i unplug my idle air control valve shouldnt the car die? I think someone told me once that if it doesn't it means there is a vacuum leak and its getting air from somewhere else or something but idk...if this is wrong are there any ways to test?
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:40 AM   #9
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I may have found part of my power loss. When pulling codes I got a code for sporadic rpm sensor readings so I went and wiggled the wires on it and when I wiggle the wires the car almost cuts off. I havent found the break in the wire yet because it goes into the main loom and becomes hard to trace but ill find it tomorrow and see of it helps. Also just to make sure the wastle gate is set right, it is suppose to be set at 1.8 psi correct?
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:54 AM   #10
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What is you psi set at on the turbo?
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:00 AM   #11
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What is you psi set at on the turbo?
Right now it is set at about 1.8...I found one place that says 1.8psi and one place that says 4psi...which is correct?
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:41 AM   #12
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By RPM sensor you mean cam position sensor? They tend to crap out but usually cause a no start. I'd fix that issue before it actually doesn't start.

Not sure on the wastegate settings but 1.8 seems low.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:06 AM   #13
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What year 850. If I remember it should be boosting to 8-9psi on 850 turbo.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:15 AM   #14
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Its a 94 and the rpm sensor is also called a pulse sensor...its seperate from the cam sensor
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:28 PM   #15
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You should be at 9 psi
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:21 PM   #16
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Okay, so I found something else. Its a hose that is completly broken. Idk if its a pcv hose or what but it goes from under the intake manifold to a piece of plastic by the turbo. It has a rubber connection in the back with a sensor as well. Its about a 3/8 hard plastic line but then its covered with a thick foam covering. That is why I could never tell it was broken. Is this pcv or something else? I am replacing all vacuum lines and mending the broken line tomorrow whatever it is. I believe the cutting while wiggling the wire was coincidental considering I cant make it happen again. It steadily got worse today as well. I had a 1 hour drive home from my friends and while I was there I was tryibg to make it cut by wiggling the wire. It wouldn't, but as soon as I left it was cutting every second or so unless I kept it in 3rd or 4th. It seemed to only happen below 3000 rpm. I took off my distributor today and check and cleaned up ritir and posts just to be sure it was unrelated. Once again, what is that lime im describing?
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:39 PM   #17
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That is a pvc hose, and the sensor by the turbo is not a sensor it is a PTC heater. It heats the pvc gasses when it's cold.
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:51 AM   #18
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Well it's pulling air from the atmosphere instead of the crank case if it's broken. Basically a vac leak
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:03 PM   #19
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Also a boost leak.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:25 PM   #20
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Also a boost leak.
Well, in theory it's before the pressurized air from the turbo, so would be pulling IN via vacuum regardless of boost or vacuum at the manifold, not blowing out


OP, you fix this yet? You can buy PCV hose at most auto places. Super easy fix. You may have noticed around the same time the car smells like oil and gas more than usual.
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:14 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by atrokz View Post
Well, in theory it's before the pressurized air from the turbo, so would be pulling IN via vacuum regardless of boost or vacuum at the manifold, not blowing out


OP, you fix this yet? You can buy PCV hose at most auto places. Super easy fix. You may have noticed around the same time the car smells like oil and gas more than usual.
Yeah, my fiancÚ keeps asking me why she smells oil lol and I haven't fixed half ass fixed it tonight but I plan on ordering the pcv kit shortly. what does the lower of the two vacuum hoses in the front of the head do? Bottom one is totally shot. I went to get a new hose for it today but picked up the wrong size. Gotta try again in the morning. I took in a piece of it and asked for the same size but what they gave me was extremely loose.
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:34 AM   #22
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I believe stock is metric and most shops use imperial hoses. So get the tightest fit that won't damage the hose.

Not sure what hoses you mean. Been a while since I've had a T5.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:45 PM   #23
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https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_w...techdocs.shtml
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