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T cam in na b230?

I just know I've found a t cam at my local junkyard and the guy said I could have other for $25, I'm just a highschool kid and I blew most of my minimum wage paychecks on just getting the car street legal so right now I'm just strapped for cash. I only know the t cams were on turbo redblocks but I've got no idea what cars the other cams were on. I mean I thought the other cams were on the British models and $60 plus international shipping is the majority of a week's pay for me lol. I think I'll just get that t cam for now because I have a few more stuff that needs fixing.
 
My car's also equipped with the m47 and it has no tach so idk if it being a manual would affect anything and I really don't get into high rpms without a tach.
 
My car's also equipped with the m47 and it has no tach so idk if it being a manual would affect anything and I really don't get into high rpms without a tach.


Manual? I take back what i said. Dont get a t cam look around here and get an A cam. I payed $40 off here shipped for one.

I only saif T because you said low to mid range and i assumed auto. I know i know, ASS-U-ME-d sorry.

Seriously save your pesos another week and find an A cam off here youll be happier
 
Will I have to adjust any clearances with the valves and such? And if so I know there's no rocker arms so what would I do to adjust it?
 
The A cam is a nice cam. Power drops off in the 5000's, so if you shift it when it wants, you won't be in danger. You don't even need a tach. Great for a daily, nice with a turbo too.

K cam, it pulls right into the rev limiter at 6500. Fun.
 
With a manual you'll want the B or A cam. I think the K and H are good too but harder to find. A and B are cheap and readily available. It will pull much higher in the revs. I installed a B cam in my 240 and didn't have to adjust any clearances. They may have not been consistent, but they were within spec. (All that matters). Get yourself one of those.
 
Will I have to adjust any clearances with the valves and such? And if so I know there's no rocker arms so what would I do to adjust it?

As usual redwood is correct.

Before you dive into this job,I would recommend you purchase a Bently book for your 240. It'll give you detailed instructions on how to do things like shim your can followers. You can also buy a set of Greenbooks, or download them from kjet.org.
 
Manual non-turbo is fine with the T cam. When I did the head swap on the '84 245GL, I left the T cam that was in the B23FT head. Didn't feel any worse than the B cam I had in the old head, performance-wise. It did idle smoothly at 750-800 instead of having to run at 900-950, as was the case with the old setup. Pulled from idle to about 4500 rpm or so, then it was making noise. Whereas the M cam seems to fall off around 4200 or so in a M46/47 car. So, probably a perfect cam for that 2000-4000 rpm driving range in Wales. In the USA and Canada, should be fine in the 750 rpm-3200 rpm range that we usually see, since we can actually use the higher gears and also wind up being stuck in traffic.

With respect to the B cam in a non-turbo car, it's pretty much making noise above 5500 rpm. So, you have about 300 rpm before you hit the rev limiter on a B230F or a B23F where you're just making noise. In a turbo, it's a great cam, as is the A cam.

You almost need a VX or wilder cam in a non-turbo car to get any real upper end. Had a K cam in our old '85 245DL for a while. Great from about 2000 rpm on up to the rev limiter. Did retard the timing to about 8 deg BTDC from 12, though. Also ran 92 octane exclusively. Also had a much throatier exhaust note. Idle wasn't too bad. A bit B20F-like, so it sounded like a sewing machine. In my old '81 242DL, I installed a B23E engine in place of the old B21F. With that setup, it would pull to the redline no problem. And probably past it. No rev limiter. Basic K-Jet, Bosch breakerless ignition, no EGR, and with Pulsair. Felt very strong. Well, until I got my first 242T. Stock B21FT without an intercooler. A lot quicker. Also, if I didn't hoon it, I'd get 24-27 mpg easily. With the B23E, it usually was 22-25.

-J
 
None of you biblical ****tards are going to post numbers?

Or just talk about... I don't know
Duration?
Lift?
Overlap?

Not a chance
I LIKE t
I PREFER the a
I bought that for 40$
wra wra wra

moron.gif
 
None of you biblical ****tards are going to post numbers?

Or just talk about... I don't know
Duration?
Lift?
Overlap?

Not a chance
I LIKE t
I PREFER the a
I bought that for 40$
wra wra wra

moron.gif


Theres a cam spec sticky, didnt know we needed to post a chart any time someone mentions stock cams.
 
Meh, lots of people never look at the stickies off the front page under "resources"......

Just goes to show how bad the t cam sucks though. The lsa is narrower than the m cam and that's about it. The a cam makes more power and torque.
 
'T' cam is *not* worth the expense of shims if you have an automatic. BTDT. 'M' to 'T' in my 745 when I had the B230 in it. Difference was not noticeable. Any "improvements" get lost in the torque converter. What was noticeable was doubling the number of cams. ;)

An 'A' is totally the way to go. I have one in the "now parts car" 5-spd 1990 245. Engine was liberated. Advanced 2 degrees with one of Dale's old gears. I like the 'A' better in the turbo 945 as well. Nice linear feeling cam through the revs.

-Ryan
 
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