740 In tank sending unit

[ZVOLV]

Your pics are huge and I think some of your questions have been overlooked due to the layout.

-I saw a pic of a junction of some black wires circled. It's where two black wires, one from the pump and one from the sensor are spliced into ONE wire.

-Bench test the pump. You also should use a test lamp (not a meter!!!) and confirm current is getting to the pump. You could have a blown fuse. Have you checked that yet?

 

[colgate41]

Your pics are huge and I think some of your questions have been overlooked due to the layout.

-I saw a pic of a junction of some black wires circled. It's where two black wires, one from the pump and one from the sensor are spliced into ONE wire.

-Bench test the pump. You also should use a test lamp (not a meter!!!) and confirm current is getting to the pump. You could have a blown fuse. Have you checked that yet?

Thanks. Sorry about the huge photos. I?ll resize and repost later today.

In tank pump fuse was good. Tested the pump I pulled out. You can see all the rust built up in but I did test it and got nothing. I just hooked up a couple wires to it and tried to run it off the cars battery and got nothing.

Tested the new pump (that has just been sitting in its box for years) and it spun right up.

 

[ZVOLV]

I've had motors pass a bench test when connected right close to a hot battery. But if yours didn't spin, it's DEAD.

If you had that tank down it would be easy to clean out that rust, eh?

Got test lamp? Make sure the circuit is good before buttoning it all up. I've had a chafed wire once and I didn't catch it until after I replaced the pump.

 

[colgate41]

I've had motors pass a bench test when connected right close to a hot battery. But if yours didn't spin, it's DEAD.

If you had that tank down it would be easy to clean out that rust, eh?

Got test lamp? Make sure the circuit is good before buttoning it all up. I've had a chafed wire once and I didn't catch it until after I replaced the pump.

Right. I only wanted to test the new motor because it had been sitting for a few years. Just wanted to cover my bases.

Old one was toast.

 

[colgate41]

Sorry about the SUPER large images before. These should be much better.


First Photo
Basically I'd like to know what kind and where to get the hose that connects to the in tank pump. The one on the unit I pulled from the car split.

Second Photo
What is this thing?



Third Photo
How much should I worry about the crap in the tank? Yes, I'd like to drop it and clean it but like someone said earlier, I'm nervous to open pandoras box. I don't have access to a lift but do have floor jacks/safety jacks. Lots of rust on all the bolts holding it in.


<a href="https://ibb.co/Hx2f1fH"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/z75TjT4/Phot-o3.jpg" alt="Phot-o3" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/6ZMYt85"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/8BCMxbV/Photo-1.jpg" alt="Photo-1" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/w4ky98H"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/gJ2y5Q1/Photo-2.jpg" alt="Photo-2" border="0"></a>

Thanks!

 

[hiperfauto]

Pics aren't working for me.

The in tank pump requires submersible fuel hose. IPD sells 3" lengths.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8767/121652-gates-premium-submersible-fuel-hose-for-volvo-in-tank-pre-pumps-3-inch-length-121652

Volvo sells it by the meter.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-rubber-hose-3514604

That thing is the roll over valve. That's the locating pin sticking out the back. The hose connections are on the sides.

 

[colgate41]

Pics aren't working for me.

The in tank pump requires submersible fuel hose. IPD sells 3" lengths.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8767/121652-gates-premium-submersible-fuel-hose-for-volvo-in-tank-pre-pumps-3-inch-length-121652

Volvo sells it by the meter.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-rubber-hose-3514604

That thing is the roll over valve. That's the locating pin sticking out the back. The hose connections are on the sides.

Thanks again for all the helpful info. The IPD one wont work as I need at least 8-9 inches.

 

[RacerX]

In terms of a tool to remove the big plastic nut...any ideas? I've searched but cant seem to find one for a 740. The only thing I've found is this, but it says it's for a 940. Hard to believe Volvo would change the design from 740 to 940 but would this fit my lock ring?

https://www.jbtools.com/lock-techno...C0qu34FSEXTb9YGr7vg3JM9JosPHqgkwaAilJEALw_wcB

If not, any tips to getting this thing off? I tried a flat head screw driver and a block of wood and all I was able to do was damage the lock ring itself. Not a big deal since I have a new one but any tips?

Thanks!

A rubber strap wrench has always worked for me. I have a nonrubbers strap wrench which has never really worked well on much so make sure it is rubber.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAP6FQ...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[Otto Mattik]

Rotted out, removed from tank:

midwest car

 

[FreeEMSFred]

I had mine out today and I didn't even think to look inside the tank with a light. Zero rust 28 years later, all zinc still in place, just a light film that easily wiped off and could barely be seen. My little pump was indeed dead, no current drawn, no rotation, gave the test leads the spark test, too. Will update my thread with more detail shortly, but glad I didn't have to deal with anything like that, it'd seriously sour the old car ownership experience for me.

As for the stuff in the tank, no way would I put that back together - I'd definitely take it out and clean it out fully. No question at all. The little filter sock only gets the chunks, and isn't meant to deal with crap like that. Your new pump will suck the finer stuff in until it wears out and dies, again, as will the main pump fed from it with the same fine grit. No bueno! :-/

 

[colgate41]

I had mine out today and I didn't even think to look inside the tank with a light. Zero rust 28 years later, all zinc still in place, just a light film that easily wiped off and could barely be seen. My little pump was indeed dead, no current drawn, no rotation, gave the test leads the spark test, too. Will update my thread with more detail shortly, but glad I didn't have to deal with anything like that, it'd seriously sour the old car ownership experience for me.

As for the stuff in the tank, no way would I put that back together - I'd definitely take it out and clean it out fully. No question at all. The little filter sock only gets the chunks, and isn't meant to deal with crap like that. Your new pump will suck the finer stuff in until it wears out and dies, again, as will the main pump fed from it with the same fine grit. No bueno! :-/

Yeah, it?s going to be a pain in the butt, mostly because of the rusty bolts but I don?t want to have to do this again so I?ll start soaking those bolts in PB Blastor now...

 

[colgate41]

I thought things over and decided to drop the tank. I knew I'd kick myself later if some of the crap from the tank ended up killing the in-tank pump. So, since this is not my daily anymore I'm chipping away at it.

Aside from all the rust on the top of the sending unit and on the hose clamps the under body of the car is pretty rust free for a Northeast car thanks in large part to a THICK underbody coating. Of course the bolts I needed to get to were somehow missed so yes, they were rusty but I ended up using this product called Kano Aerokroil. Think PB B'laster but even more high tech. Science blah blah blah but this S*hit worked! I highly recommend it!

I loosened the two straps holding the tank in place and then realized the tank wouldn't clear the rear beam unless the bracket closer to the sending unit was removed. Did that and lowered the tank down with a floor jack and 2x4.

I'm happy it came out pretty easy all things considered. Now I can empty, clean and let it dry. Once that's all done Im going to get the sending unit in it with the tank out of the car as long as that's posable.

Having the tank out of the car also gives me much easier access to the hose clamps holding the rubber fuel lines coming from the sender.

 

[colgate41]

Also, this skid plate (?) thing that covers the brake lines is broken on one side. Any idea what the heck this is called and does anyone have a good one laying around? Thanks!

 

[ZVOLV]

Yikes! I hope you didn't work under that car supported by a jack. No front wheel chocks!!!??


Glad you got the tank out.

 

[colgate41]

Yikes! I hope you didn't work under that car supported by a jack. No front wheel chocks!!!??


Glad you got the tank out.

Of course not! I had floor jacks holding the rear up and the front wheels chocked as I was working. I did have the raise the car up and remove a floor jack to slide the tank out and then take a photo of course .

 

[Otto Mattik]

I'm curious how the straps, bolts etc.. look, will you have to replace much of the hardware ?

 

[colgate41]

I'm curious how the straps, bolts etc.. look, will you have to replace much of the hardware ?

The straps look/feel good. I had every intention of replacing but I don?t see a need to. The bolts/nuts also look good. A bit of surface rust but I?m going to soak them in vinegar for a bit. Since I didn?t really round any of them off I think I?m ok to reuse.

 

[Otto Mattik]

 

[Mr. V]

I really feel sorry for you east coast Turbobrick guys, having to deal with all that rust.

We left coasters just take our essentially rust free Volvos for granted.

No doubt that if the cars were worth more money there would be a network in place to ship rust free west coast Volvos to the east coast for resale.

Oh, I'd never heard of using vinegar on rust: how effective is it, do you have to soak parts completely or can you spray it on and have good results?

 

[FreeEMSFred]

vinegar, slow, and if they have zinc on them, it'll eat that first - better to physically remove it with a scotchbrite or nylon grit wheel and apply paint and protective grease/tar after installing. If you fully stirp them, then recoat before use, or hope for the best with grease/tar everywhere