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My '78 242 L33 turbo build

So I was not happy with the valve covers after bead blasting, so I got a set that looks good. Unfortunately, after installing them, I realized there is no way to get the coils to mount back on it. I had a set of ICT Billet coil brackets to replace my super rusty stock ones, but those only fit the stock covers apparently. After a lot of searches and examining various parts, the only ones I could find were 1 set of coil relocation brackets, there wasn't much choice. Unless I bought another set of different new coils...which I am not going to do right now.
Coils are D585 style, p/n 19005218, round with aluminum heatsink on top.

New valve covers:

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Assembled relocation brackets

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Brackets that didn't work...

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If anyone wants the brackets that didn't fit, $45 shipped, mounting bolts included but not pictured.

Pretty sure I will be making new plug wires to get these in also. Learning a lot on this build haha.

Also want to thank JohnMc and Pillow for help with the throttle body problem!
 
Progress...needed a spacer on the alternator pulley to line up the belt, done. Notch the trans tunnel so I can shift...done. Cut weird little protrusions off the tranny so it doesn't rub..done.
Heater core install got stalled by removing a ton of unnecessary wires, and repairing necessary wires. During that process I found the wire that was killing my K Jet from running...too late for all that though. It was severed where the harness goes through the firewall somehow. The covering was in perfect shape.

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Master cylinder held up because of buying the wrong fitting.

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Thanks, they aren't connected, the Wilwood is just for the hydraulic throw out bearing for the clutch. I would like to figure out a smaller brake booster though, haven't looked into that yet.
 
I wish we could get it down to something that small! The drivers side is getting a bit tight, I guess that's why the single turbo option is more common way to go.

Gotta kick it outta the shop for a few days, dam customers need work done apparently, interrupting the process :-P

But going to pick out my shift lever, knob, and trans mount from Hanlon Motorsports tomorrow, will be fun to pick them out somewhere I can actually see and touch the product in front of me, a nice change from ordering over the internet.
 
So I got the shift lever and knob, happy with them.

Mounting the transmission...that did not go as expected. There was a 3 1/4" gap to fill, and transmission mounts are only 1 3/4" tall. I got some bonus lift time due to a customer dropping off a car much later than expected. We came up with a TB custom space consisting of a piece of aluminum box, 1/4" and 1/8" plate steel. Pretty heavy and not real pretty but it works. Not sure what was supposed to happen here, you can't drop the transmission any lower, the motor mounts get unhappy and spring it back up.

IMPORTANT EDIT: (Ya I leave my dumb screwups in this thread) I should have used a Ford T5 mount, not a Chevy T56 mount. I will be correcting this ASAP.

I was warned by a Tremec guru not to use poly bushings on the trans if using poly bushings on the engine, it can crack the case.

This actually matches the car well even though it looks dark in the pic.
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My beautiful mount and spacer arrangement. Soon to be replaced with the correct parts...

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Haha, we already share one.

Got a bunch of fittings and things today to move things along, but really excited for what is arriving tomorrow!!!!!
 
I didn't get all of my parts today, but I did get a catch can and multi port fuel regulator that look very nice! The catch can even has a dipstick.

The pressure regulator, for anyone who didn't see my fuel pump set up, is a multi port unit because I am running a surge tank containing two Walbro 255 pumps, and have an output for each pump. They will combine in the regulator. Fuel lines will be 8AN, except between the surge tank and regulator, those are 6AN.

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Pics of the surge tank again to make sense of the regulator

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Thanks! Ya, I was digging the look of course, and after comparing prices with comparable products, they are right there but look better and have stuff like dipsticks for your catch can.

I also had to get a vacuum manifold since my intake only has 2 vacuum ports. For anyone else looking at doing that, McMastercarr is the place to go. Industrial stuff in whatever material, of course I got anodized aluminum. The ones sold for cars are tiny and you end up with fittings larger than the inside of the manifold for the brake booster and climate control. Also I do not like sharing vacuum ports for the fuel pressure regulator with anything else.
 
My heater core installation turned into a lot of little side jobs. Removing all the K Jet wiring, sorting out the hack jobs others have done, attempting to restore the interior lighting, etc. My center console cover was in really bad shape, RWC hooked me up with a really nice one. Unfortunately many of these have at least a bit of broken plastic. My console was missing all the backlighting parts, so I am trying to find them. a biggie was the light bar that goes over the switches. I got a new one from Skandix, but my mounting points are long gone, so it needed some TB rigging. Two carefully cut bits of hard rubber and some superglue, back in business:

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Posting a wanted ad to find the other bits I need, not really sure else what is missing yet.

So far I found 3 wire nuts in the dash. DON'T DO THAT! Wtf is wrong with people...

Dash light dimmer wiring is just totally gone, used for who knows what. I have to rewire that also.
 
Monday was a nice day, important since I'm working on the car outside for now. Stripped the upper firewall insulation piece and cleaned up the paint. I also installed a new wiper motor, had it on the shelf and it looks much cleaner.
Test fitted my old school Thule rack parts and the NOS/MIB Volvo cargo rack, fits fine, took it off again.

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So the way project cars go, one thing is tied to another, ankle bone connected to the knee bone, etc. I have been doing several things that are easier now the dashboard is gutted. Today I removed the 8" brake booster to install the 9" slim booster.

After removing the 8" booster, I thought it would be a good time to install the STS round steering shaft. This showed me that the driver side header will not clear the steering shaft, or more accurately it will rub. So a carbide burr to the header...

Figuring this is a great time to install that header, I discovered my factory header bolts are all banged up. So Amazon to the rescue and a set of ARP stainless bolts are on the way.

Part of the reason for the brake booster swap is to attempt to mount the coils on the valve covers again...my new valve covers are meant to have the coils mounted directly to them but my coil style does not fit of course. So I need different valve covers :grrr:

Another part of the booster replacement, it allows me to tuck the light wiring harness under the booster easily.

Almost touching and no exhaust manifold gasket installed.
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